Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on May 27, 2011 at 5:05am

You've probably been looking at guitars with a different coloured wood for the fretboard, something like rosewood, ebony or walnut on the fretboard..naturally dark timbers that don't need any stain. 

 

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on May 27, 2011 at 5:32am

I usually just stain the cherry trim wood I use for fret boards with cooking oil to bring out the true color of the wood, and then I apply a couple coats of polyurethane before I start adding the frets. It seems to stiffen up the wood a bit and I feel I can get cleaner cuts for the fret slots. After cutting the slots, I install the fret wire, trim them down and file them smooth. Then I do what most people would be aghast at doing... I apply a couple more coats of poly urethase on the fretboard, painting it on at a 90 degree angle to the grain of the wood (so as to avoid excessive polyurethane buildup on the frets). Doing this final application of polyurethane seems to help glue in the frets. Also, between coats of polyurethane, I let it dry and then sand with #000 steel wool (a kind made to serve as a fine grained sand paper). I use a water based polyurethane and have used the same brush for nearly a year now. On oil based, I usually buy a new brush for every application, and the oil based stuff really stinks up the place. Best to do it outside if using oil based polyurethane. When I get rich maybe I'll try spray-on polyurethane.

So, come on everyone... Let me hear why I do it so wrong and please suggest better methods

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by Gidit 'n Go Coolbreeze on May 27, 2011 at 6:15am

Thanks so much for the help! 

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Permalink Reply by Huntz Meyer on May 27, 2011 at 6:18am

I've done both-either works.  Staining post gluing I use a foam brush, steady hand, and make sure gravity works with me instead of dripping stain on the other side of the line.  Keep a paper towel in you back pocket.

 

A proper file makes a world of difference.  Since I bought this one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultimate-Fret-End-File-fits-Gibson-Les-Paul-SG-...

 

I can do frets post-finishing and quickly.  It is well-designed, but I prefer another method than he uses in the video.  By finishing first, I save lots of time by not having to deal with junk puddling at the fret.

 

Huntz

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Permalink Reply by Jon Pruett on May 27, 2011 at 7:48am

When possible I prefer to use a different wood for the fretboard and neck and finish them after gluing together with tung oil. I have done a couple with painted or stained fretboards where I finished the fretboard and the neck separately and then glued together, but it's more difficult to get a very smooth edge transition that way. Once I have several coats of tung oil applied I'll install the frets and file them smooth, and then do a few more coats of tung oil and sanding to fix any slips I might have made with the file.

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Permalink Reply by Habanera Hal on May 27, 2011 at 2:01pm

Sometimes it will depend on how your plan goes together.  You may need to attach the fretboard after the neck is installed in the box (like if your fretboard extends over ther box lid a ways - this might be the case if you're not doing a through-nech design).  What I do in that case is to glue the neck and fretboard together with a piece of cardstock between them (use white glue), then sand and finish them together.  When you're ready to assemble everything, you can split the two apart real easy, remove the cardstock, then permanently glue them back together once the neck is attached to the box.

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Permalink Reply by Gidit 'n Go Coolbreeze on June 6, 2011 at 8:46am

I can't find any wood in my area in the right size (I only own two saws: coping and hack) so here's my plan.  If my logic sounds too far out there, or if any of you have tried this and failed please let me know and i'll figure something else out.

 

I'm going to use small finishing nails with the head cut out to kind of "tack" the fretboard to the neck and clamp it.  Sand the seams, remove, stain and finish the neck, glue the fretboard back on using the "tacks" as a guide, then finish/file.  Does this seem reasonable?  It kind of piggybacks on Hal's idea with the cardstock.......

 

I hate to ressurect an old thread, but I wanted to get some input before I ruin a neck!  Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by Jon Pruett on June 6, 2011 at 8:59am

I'd suggest looking into hide glue or gelatin glue. You can cook it up real easy and glue the pieces together for sanding. Then you heat them up with a hair dryer they release them and stain them separately.  I haven't tried it myself, but it sounds like a workable idea.  Good luck!

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Permalink Reply by Ken Hall on June 6, 2011 at 11:23am

I am totally new to CBG but have been amateur luthier for a number of years. With standard acoustic guitars the fretboard is made from a contrasting timber, most often ebony or rosewood. This prepared and fitted before attaching to the neck and body. When the rest of he CBG is finished (spryed or brushed or french polished the fretboard is protected with masking tape. The fretboard is finished with orange oil or similar, there is a specially made fretboard and string oil available.

Hope this helps, Ken from Oz

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on June 7, 2011 at 9:01pm

whereabouts are you Ken ?

 

Giddit, Ive never stained a fretboard seperate, but ive dyed whole necks, I do it after fretting, and after finishing the frets, i find im bound to sand a little of the fingerboard when im getting the frets nice and flush so I think i'd bve touching up with the stain anyway.   I'm not real big into stains, I like contrasting woods..  When you've been doing this a little while you'll start to find good hardwood everywhere.   I used to buy it too.   See if you have a warehouse stocking big machinery nearby, I get most of my neck wood from the bearers in crates bringing big machines into the country

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Permalink Reply by Chuck Dubman on June 10, 2011 at 7:59pm

I use olive oil with French polish to keep the pad from sticking (the *traditional* oil), so should be no prob. 

 

As for the poly, you can apply it with a rag, like Watco (which is varnish cut with mostly solvent).  You can actually dip it straight from the can, or pour off a little into a jar and cut it 50%.  One popular recipe uses equal parts oil-based varnish (any), boiled linseed or tung oil, and thinner or turpentine.  Three, four coats wiped on, allowed to sit 10 minutes, and wiped back dry, rubbed with 0000 wool or gray Scotchbrite, will look -- and feel -- amazing.  Be sure to burn or lay out application rags after use to prevent fire.

Rand Moore said:

I usually just stain the cherry trim wood I use for fret boards with cooking oil to bring out the true color of the wood, and then I apply a couple coats of polyurethane before I start adding the frets. It seems to stiffen up the wood a bit and I feel I can get cleaner cuts for the fret slots. After cutting the slots, I install the fret wire, trim them down and file them smooth. Then I do what most people would be aghast at doing... I apply a couple more coats of poly urethase on the fretboard, painting it on at a 90 degree angle to the grain of the wood (so as to avoid excessive polyurethane buildup on the frets). Doing this final application of polyurethane seems to help glue in the frets. Also, between coats of polyurethane, I let it dry and then sand with #000 steel wool (a kind made to serve as a fine grained sand paper). I use a water based polyurethane and have used the same brush for nearly a year now. On oil based, I usually buy a new brush for every application, and the oil based stuff really stinks up the place. Best to do it outside if using oil based polyurethane. When I get rich maybe I'll try spray-on polyurethane.

So, come on everyone... Let me hear why I do it so wrong and please suggest better methods

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by Wade on June 11, 2011 at 3:20am

 I've stained fretboards before and after and got good results, but not great. The stain tends to wear off if you stain it first as you are dressing frets/sanding, etc;. Staining afterwards the stain penetrates more around the frets. Both methods work fine for me if I'm doing a primative build. If I'm doing a more refined build I like using something like a dark walnut fretboard with and oak or poplar neck. Then all I do is put a light coat or two of oil and your done. I also find this method to go much quicker and I'm not fixing drips, runs, etc;

 

 

Wade

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