Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Michael R Cossey on August 30, 2010 at 3:26pm

Thanks Don, No rush anyway, I'll have to see if I can wrap my head around it, Not my strongest area ...

Mike


Don Goguen said:

I'm in Iowa all week on business but I'll post it up on my blog when I get back. I have my work laptop, not my personal one so I don't have the pdf. The diagram is pretty simple. A couple of Caps, a voltage regulator and a few resistors. The Red Lion work off an internal battery that supposed to have a 10 year life span. The circuit is only for the optical sensor so you end up with a pulse input to the counter. In the picture on my post (it is probably not too clear) behind the bobbin plate is a washer that is half painted flat black. The sensor I chose emits IR and measures the reflection back. With the counter/sensor combo I picked, it is good past 2k rpm.

Anybody know what there is to do in Des Moines?

Michael R Cossey said:

Don,

I sure would like to have a copy of that diagram, It would come in handy in my near future.......
Thanks, Mike

"I purchased a red lion counter on Ebay for $15 and an optical sensor from Newark Electronics. I needed to build a simple power supply circuit for the sensor. I can provide the diagram to anyone that wants it."

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bob Harrison on August 30, 2010 at 3:34pm

When I pass through Des Moines I ate BBQ. Can't recall where. Arrowhead hunting was good.

Michael R Cossey said:

Thanks Don, No rush anyway, I'll have to see if I can wrap my head around it, Not my strongest area ...

Mike


Don Goguen said:

I'm in Iowa all week on business but I'll post it up on my blog when I get back. I have my work laptop, not my personal one so I don't have the pdf. The diagram is pretty simple. A couple of Caps, a voltage regulator and a few resistors. The Red Lion work off an internal battery that supposed to have a 10 year life span. The circuit is only for the optical sensor so you end up with a pulse input to the counter. In the picture on my post (it is probably not too clear) behind the bobbin plate is a washer that is half painted flat black. The sensor I chose emits IR and measures the reflection back. With the counter/sensor combo I picked, it is good past 2k rpm.

Anybody know what there is to do in Des Moines?

Michael R Cossey said:

Don,

I sure would like to have a copy of that diagram, It would come in handy in my near future.......
Thanks, Mike

"I purchased a red lion counter on Ebay for $15 and an optical sensor from Newark Electronics. I needed to build a simple power supply circuit for the sensor. I can provide the diagram to anyone that wants it."

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Don Goguen on August 31, 2010 at 7:29pm

Well work in Iowa in not going smoothly and I'm up at 2am trying to get my mind off of it. Mike, I found the schematic diagram for the counter. Here it is. From left to right, I'll explain the build. You can ignore D1 if you want. Starting with with the voltage source, use a junk wall wart of some DC voltage between 5 and 16 volts. There is probably something in your junk drawer you can use. Just make sure it is DC and not AC output. You can breadboard this on a small experimenter pc board from radio shack. The next device is an LM7805 between two capacitors. This is a 5 volt regulator. Radio shack sells one for less than two bucks. I don't think it is the LM7805 but the one they sell is similar and will work. The caps are there for filtering and current storage. any voltage rating that is above your wall wart supply value will work (like 25volt caps). R1 and the led is optional but it is nice to have an indicator letting you know your power is working. R2, r3 and the QRB1114 is the working part of this circuit. What makes this work is when the sensor sees the change in reflected light (dark to light), it drops the voltage to ground. The voltage at the junction of R3 and the counter goes from 5 volts to something less than 2 volts (digital high to low). The counter responds to this change in voltage and adds one to the count. Pretty simple. Unless the counter you go with has a reset input, ignore the counter reset switch. Mine came with one on the front panel and no reset input. The voltage regulator has the pin outs for input, output and ground on the package. The spec sheet for the sensor can be had online. It has a diagram on which pin is what. Really the hardest part to this is the mechanical. It works best if you design that with a 50% duty cycle. For example I used a washer painted half flat black or 50%. I polished the washer first to make sure the surface was reflective. So what ever rotational part you use to count needs shiny and dark, half and half. This maximizes the speed at which the circuit will count.

Michael R Cossey said:

Thanks Don, No rush anyway, I'll have to see if I can wrap my head around it, Not my strongest area ...

Mike Don Goguen said:

I'm in Iowa all week on business but I'll post it up on my blog when I get back. I have my work laptop, not my personal one so I don't have the pdf. The diagram is pretty simple. A couple of Caps, a voltage regulator and a few resistors. The Red Lion work off an internal battery that supposed to have a 10 year life span. The circuit is only for the optical sensor so you end up with a pulse input to the counter. In the picture on my post (it is probably not too clear) behind the bobbin plate is a washer that is half painted flat black. The sensor I chose emits IR and measures the reflection back. With the counter/sensor combo I picked, it is good past 2k rpm.


Anybody know what there is to do in Des Moines? Michael R Cossey said:

Don,


I sure would like to have a copy of that diagram, It would come in handy in my near future.......
Thanks, Mike "I purchased a red lion counter on Ebay for $15 and an optical sensor from Newark Electronics. I needed to build a simple power supply circuit for the sensor. I can provide the diagram to anyone that wants it."

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Michael R Cossey on September 1, 2010 at 2:25am

Thanks again Don......Wish me luck!........and the writeup is a very big help......combined with the pic...Mike
Don Goguen said:

Well work in Iowa in not going smoothly and I'm up at 2am trying to get my mind off of it. Mike, I found the schematic diagram for the counter. Here it is.


From left to right, I'll explain the build. You can ignore D1 if you want. Starting with with the voltage source, use a junk wall wart of some DC voltage between 5 and 16 volts. There is probably something in your junk drawer you can use. Just make sure it is DC and not AC output. You can breadboard this on a small experimenter pc board from radio shack. The next device is an LM7805 between two capacitors. This is a 5 volt regulator. Radio shack sells one for less than two bucks. I don't think it is the LM7805 but the one they sell is similar and will work. The caps are there for filtering and current storage. any voltage rating that is above your wall wart supply value will work (like 25volt caps). R1 and the led is optional but it is nice to have an indicator letting you know your power is working. R2, r3 and the QRB1114 is the working part of this circuit. What makes this work is when the sensor sees the change in reflected light (dark to light), it drops the voltage to ground. The voltage at the junction of R3 and the counter goes from 5 volts to something less than 2 volts (digital high to low). The counter responds to this change in voltage and adds one to the count. Pretty simple. Unless the counter you go with has a reset input, ignore the counter reset switch. Mine came with one on the front panel and no reset input.
The voltage regulator has the pin outs for input, output and ground on the package. The spec sheet for the sensor can be had online. It has a diagram on which pin is what. Really the hardest part to this is the mechanical. It works best if you design that with a 50% duty cycle. For example I used a washer painted half flat black or 50%. I polished the washer first to make sure the surface was reflective. So what ever rotational part you use to count needs shiny and dark, half and half. This maximizes the speed at which the circuit will count.

Michael R Cossey said:

Thanks Don, No rush anyway, I'll have to see if I can wrap my head around it, Not my strongest area ...

Mike
Don Goguen said:

I'm in Iowa all week on business but I'll post it up on my blog when I get back. I have my work laptop, not my personal one so I don't have the pdf. The diagram is pretty simple. A couple of Caps, a voltage regulator and a few resistors. The Red Lion work off an internal battery that supposed to have a 10 year life span. The circuit is only for the optical sensor so you end up with a pulse input to the counter. In the picture on my post (it is probably not too clear) behind the bobbin plate is a washer that is half painted flat black. The sensor I chose emits IR and measures the reflection back. With the counter/sensor combo I picked, it is good past 2k rpm.


Anybody know what there is to do in Des Moines? Michael R Cossey said:

Don,


I sure would like to have a copy of that diagram, It would come in handy in my near future.......
Thanks, Mike "I purchased a red lion counter on Ebay for $15 and an optical sensor from Newark Electronics. I needed to build a simple power supply circuit for the sensor. I can provide the diagram to anyone that wants it."

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Spencer on September 4, 2010 at 8:26am

Just picked one of these up. Plugged in at first it is slow and will indeed need to be gutted. Care to share any info on how extensive the gutting process is for one these before I get in, or tips, Sack?

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Permalink Reply by Spencer on September 4, 2010 at 9:22am

Also I've started the process and did loosen the motor to see how it spins with no belt and it revs up nicely - the cam is pretty gummy inside and bogs it down. I just pulled a few things off to get started. I currently have more important things to tend to - learning the art of the Mint Julep, refining my technique, and imbibing them until my frustration with humidity drowns in them, while enjoying the company of others.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by sad sack on September 5, 2010 at 7:45am

i removed everything but the main shaft and the pulley. you will need to oil (with sewing machine oil) the shaft and motor fairly frequently, especially once it's running much faster. that sewing bobbin winder that idles off of the pulley needs to go. anything that has to due with sewing really. post of photo of the end of the pulley and how it mounds. there should be a screw that holds a knurled knob from moving once it is hand tight. this machine should be perfect for winding pickups. good find. more modern machines are a lot harder to dismantle and still have them work.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Spencer on September 6, 2010 at 4:10pm

Yeah there were a few more modern machines there as well but for the reasons you mentioned, I had my eye on this one. Then when I saw yours I realized I should just pull the trigger on it. I removed a few more things from it after posting but didn't get a chance to get back to it this weekend. After you take a few things off, you get led deeper in and find new things to remove, and I'll continue until I have the motor running the handwheel. Thanks for the tip on the oiling process; i'll be picking some of that up, soon. Here's the pic to show you the end of it. It's setup really well to be modded to a winder.

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Permalink Reply by Toadie25 on January 29, 2011 at 2:45am

Thanks for the tip. Have another question though.

I'm slowly collecting part for my first guitar which I don't plan to be made of wood or have any conventional guitar parts on it (including pick-ups, strings & neck), and have "acquired" three ABS sensors from a Mazda Roadster (which work on the same principle as magnetic pick-ups).

Would it be worth trying to use these as pickups?

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Permalink Reply by Mark Bliss on January 29, 2011 at 7:12pm

Toadie, there was a seperate discussion on this somewhere recently, but to the best of my knowledge no one has confirmed or provided results of their experiments. I have a few wheel speed sensors, a cam position sensor and some odds and ends I intend to wire up and do some testing with, but getting to that is a ways off at this point.

On the subject of building/winding your own: Any of you that have experience/knowledge with this care to explain the "scatter" winding term/theory I see from time to time? I have some experience with custom/hand winding some other unrelated electrical/electromagnet components, and the thought is that carefully laid parallel winds are most efficient as crossed wires may tend to "cancel" each other out to some degree. So I am curious as to the thinking with mag pup winding.

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Permalink Reply by Kel Wilson on January 31, 2011 at 3:08pm

I have made many types of things, but but wiring/electronics have always been difficult for me.  The idea of winding my own pickup, much less it working.scares the begeezus out of me.

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Permalink Reply by Vagabanjo on February 1, 2011 at 10:12am

I modified a cheap pickup, apparently from US, the single magnet inside was short and weak, so i replaced it with small very strong magnets from a kids game, magnatronics I think, plastic with magnet each end that connect to ball bearings to make constructions, I doubled up the magnets and put 8 pairs in the PUP, just realised its too powerful, have lowered PUP as far as I can, so now gonna remove 3 pairs and separate them. I 'll let you know the results. The way I could tell is that the strings sound wierd with the PUP in, but OK without!!!

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