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Neck Drop Angle?

I tried a search of this forum but didn't come up with hits that addressed what I'm talking about.

I'm new to CGB building and have spend a number of evening bouncing around the internet looking at building instructions and videos.

I hit a video a few days ago that talks about cutting a 3 degree taper on the top side of the portion of the neck that is inside the box. This will cause the neck to angle downward (from box to head).

According to the video, this is done to address bending of the neck under string pressure and help keep the action height constant across the length of the fret board.

Is anyone familiar with this technique? Is 3 degrees the default standard?

Thanks

Tom T

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 20, 2014 at 12:00am

Thanks Joel.

I did that on my first build and will likely do it on the next. I measured the thickness of the new box I have and it looks like it's close to 1/4" thus the comment about a flush fret board. That being said, I think you are correct that it should be above level of the box top.

Tom T

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on October 20, 2014 at 7:24pm

me too.... :-)

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 19, 2014 at 10:16am

I found a handy web site to do my right-triangle calculations and took a look at how much of a wedge would be cut off the top of the neck to produce a 3 degree neck angle drop.

Assuming an 8" box length (212 mm actually) a 3degree angle would require an 11 mm wedge (0.43") be cut. Not a tremendous amount of material and a jig on the table saw should be able to make an accurate cut.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 19, 2014 at 1:02pm

That would be great! Three-degrees with a 20" fret board would be close to what I'm considering. Look forward to your results.

TomT

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on October 20, 2014 at 6:58am

I make the cut on the top of the neck inside the box, rather than the heel. I doubt that it makes any difference. Starting at the back of the neck, I make a mark that is the thickness of the top (lid) plus 7/32". That is the number that I came up with to get the neck angle I think I want. Near where the neck exits the box, I make a mark the thickness of the top.. I connect those two marks with a line, But I also have to make room for the top to vibrate without hitting the neck. So I saw or plane another 1/16" or so more off in that area. I let the top touch the neck just 1/8" or so at each end of the box.

Sometimes I think that I don't have enough neck angle. If not, I can always cut a little more..

Also, I make the top of the neck flush with the top of the box, then add a 7/32" fingerboard. Leaving plenty of space for picking.

I would guess that my neck angles are about 1 1/2 degrees.

I do not glue the neck in. It is held in place with screws.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 20, 2014 at 7:05am

Thanks Gary.

I planned to cut the angle on the top of the neck inside the box. I like the idea of screwing the neck to the box so it can be easily removed. Regarding making the neck flush with the top of the box, so you notch the neck so it sits flush? The box I'm looking at has a top with a thickness near 1/4" so I would need to notch the neck inside the box to make things flush.How you approach this would be helpful.

Tom T

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on October 20, 2014 at 7:20am

When you draw the line as I described, you only have to make 1 saw cut. I didn't explain that my guitars do not use a neck thru tailpiece. The neck ends at the inside of the box at the rear. I attach the strings to a brass plate attached to the back of the box and thru the box to the neck.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 20, 2014 at 8:05am

Thanks Gary.

The photos are really helpful. Is there a particular reason that you do not run the neck through? Does it help with box resonance? Every tidbit of info will be helpful.

Tom T

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on October 20, 2014 at 8:35am

No real reason. I decided I didn't like that apendage sticking out there with no particular purpose.

One day I decided to add neck drop to about 7 guitars and at the same time I decided to cut that damn thing off and put a brass plate there. Also, putting screws through the back and into the neck makes a stable joint without having to use glue.

The brass plate is slotted rather than having holes for the strings. This way, I can just loosen the strings at the peghead and pop them out for refinishing work or cleaning the fretboard or whatever.

Then I covered the mess with a Walnut assembly that I call an arm protector.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on October 20, 2014 at 8:52am

Thanks Gary.

How far does the neck run through the box? to the bottom, but not through?

Next time you have one of them opened up, pop a photo of the inside so I see how you did it.

I like the idea of screwing the neck to the box so you can take it all apart when needed.

Tom t

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on October 20, 2014 at 9:22am

Yes, the neck runs all the way through and is tight against the rear, where the buttplate is.

I'll send a photo when I have a little time to take one apart.

Oops..Here is one about half built. The sides and ends are Cedar. Notice the finger joints. I haven't shaped the neck inside the body yet or added the heel. I build my own boxes nowadays, mostly.