18in. 18 fret tenor uke. Cohiba box sound board shaved to 3/16 Mahogany neck Rosewood fingerboard and bridge. Unbleached nut and saddle. Grover uke tuners.
Worked on and off on this for over a year. Had to redrill one tuner because I didn't use a drill press and had to pull and move 3 frets from bad measuring and one is crooked now. But I know how to move them now.
Good thing this one is mine.Screwing up is a great way to learn.
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Thanks John, short scale fretting is a drag Mr. Morris said he use a razor blade to mark his frets on the finger board I'm going to try that. This is the first time I messed up a fret placement I just used saw dust and glue to fill the fret slots and a plugged I made for the tuner hole out of mahogany I'm used to repairing before I'm done building
Don't give up John make sure string height at the nut is low as you can get it and the strings are about 1/16 at the 5th fret and 1/8 at the 12th. Hold the uke in front of you and look at the neck from the side the strings should angle up to the bridge a few degrees but real low on the first few fret so you don't pull the string out of tune getting it down to the fret. Look at a factory uke you will see what I mean. Most people don't play the uke above the 5th or 7th fret so after that is fine for the strings to be off the neck more. Hope this can help. Later
My tee fine work. Hope it plays great. I read you've been working on it a long time. Your mistakes are well hidden - I don't see them. I like the sound hole.
Ukes are tough builds. I keep messing with mine - my mistakes DO show. Mine is puzzling. It sounds good on a C chord, fair on an F chord and not good on a G chord. Better on a G7 if I press harder than usual on the frets. Maybe some day I will figure it out -- or smash it.
Thanks kid, I just noticed the new Cohiba boxes have thinner bottoms now which is good for my Goofyfoot building.
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