I have five builds ongoing at the moment, but my first build has encountered a bit of a stall. The trouble is that I mistakenly cut the neck (which is not tapered) to the proper width for a typical fender nut without taking into account the hardtail adjustable bridge's string spread. Alas, it means that I will not be ending up with the six string I was aiming for, and it will have to be a four string instead. I had an idea that even with four strings, perhaps I could still put a Bigsby style tremolo/Tune-O-Matic bridge combo on it, but I'm having trouble finding something that meets my needs. So here's my question:
By chance, do any of you gurus out there know where I can find a suitable hardtail 4-string bridge (but a Tune-O-Matic plus compatible tremolo would be super awesome - IF possible) that will accommodate a string spread of 35mm (12mm between each string)? (The neck is 47mm wide.) My concern is that the neck is too wide for 10mm spacing and I would like for the strings to still be able to rest over the poles on a pickup without having to go piezo on this particular build. I can get pickups with 12mm spacing, but I'm having trouble finding a bridge that will meet my needs.
I've seen the adj. 4-string bridge at CB Gitty, but their page says it's a bottom loader, which is a problem for the box I'm using (very thin back on the guitar body). I looked at the same bridge elsewhere and one page suggests that the plate to the bridge can be drilled so that the balls of the strings could be retained directly by the bridge plate rather than running the strings through the body with ferrules. Has anyone tried this with any success? Thanks a million for any advice you fine folks can offer. I REALLY don't like the idea of cutting down my one-piece mahogany neck from a 6 to a 4 but I see little other option.
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Now that’s the way to show off. Wow love those pickups!
farmer ted gifted me those pups ,, i built the guit around them to match ;-)
That bridge is great, that's a cool git.
That's schweet! I could probably pull that off - what kind of wood did you use on the bridge and trem? That is one cool looking axe, brother! B-)
oak arm and sides and not sure on the dowel . but under that lower dowel , i have a metal rod for support , otherwise the tension would rip that dowel right outta there . this type of trem was a bit of a pain in the ass , so .. be warned , you may want an easier solution if just starting out .
I am indeed just starting out but I have mad skills when it comes to engineering wood. Thanks for the insight - I have one question: How does the lower arm (the one supported with steel rod) attach? It appears from the picture that the wood cover rests on top of the sides - so does the metal rod run through holes in the side pieces? I can't figure how it is fixed on there. As far as measurements go, I have a friend with several Gretsch guitars and Bigsby trems to put a dial caliper to. I like your idea and I think I might imitate your work.
you got it . the wood dowel is just glued ontop to hide the bar under it which is as you said run through the side holes ;-) it hides the front screws too (somewhat ) ;-)
another tip . - rub regular pam cooking spray on the top dowel ends for less friction .
also . as per size , to give you an idea . i used an oak cbg fretboard to cut out the sides and the bar .
you are welcome to copy / imitate it . its not part of my swamp witch guitar line , so have at it ;-)
Shoot - I forgot to ask about the spring - is it the same part used on the mass-produced Bigsbys? Thanks again, brother!
teisco replacement spring off ebay actually , but the bigsby spring should work too .
You could go to tail piece and a floating bridge instead. You can use any string spacing between between bridge and nut. How about a five string?
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