Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Blues Frog on July 13, 2015 at 10:02am

Right side tuners! Ain't that the truth. I did the same thing on my second build. Had to order a set of 3 right and 3 left to fix that mistake. Came out ok in the end though.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bama Hound on July 10, 2015 at 6:00am

Always cut long pieces first. On high dollar wood , I draw a cut sheet. You can use jig saw to rough out and net cut on radial arm and table saw. I am not saying cut every piece with a jig saw. I am saying rather than make one cross cut use jig saw to start,then rip and then finish cross cut . This is a real material saver on sheet goods. Making a cut sheet, in my opinion is one of the best to avoid waste.Sometime you are only throwing away sawdust and toothpicks.:-D

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 9:10am

Quick change string scheme.

This is the tailpiece I use on my guitars.  You just need to loosen the tuners  5 or 6 turns to get one or more strings out of the way for work on the fretboard, etc.  You never have to take the strings completely off the tuner except in case of changing strings.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 9:17am

Titebond Hide glue.  I use this for fretboard to neck joints or any other joint that I feel may have to be taken apart at some time.  It loosens with water.  Don't play your guitar in the rain.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 9:23am

Question on finishes.

I started out using Linseed oil.  It protects the wood, but does not give a great finish look.  Even after 4 or 5 coats.  Then I switched to Tung oil.  Still protects and gives a better finish look.  Still takes 6 to 10 coats.  I'm thinking about Tru Oil, but haven't tried it yet.  Does anyone have an opinion about Tru Oil vs Tung Oil.  I would be interested in hearing.  Or any other oil finish. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on July 10, 2015 at 9:25am

I just tried Tru Oil for the first time on my latest build (#32, have a look at my page). It gives a very attractive finish and is very easy to apply. Give it a try!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 9:35am

Thanks, Richey.  How many coats?  That is one concern.  I would like to cut down on the finish time.  The Tung oil says wait 24 hours before recoating.  I follow that for the first 2 coats and after that I only wait a few hours between coats.  Seems to work ok.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on July 10, 2015 at 9:37am

I did 6 coats on the body. 12 hours between each, very lightly sanding with 600 grit before reapplying. I wiped it on, let it sit about a minute then gently wiped off the excess. After a week I gave it a rub down with some old denim and it feels lovely and smooth.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 9:41am

Looks great.  Thanks for the reply.  I'll get to the hardware store soon.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bama Hound on July 12, 2015 at 7:21am

What page, I put in your name in search and didn't get much? What did I do wrong?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on July 10, 2015 at 10:03am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk             

Comparison of 5 different oil finishes, including Tru Oil, Tung Oil, Danish Oil, Linseed oil, and one other.  Tru Oil seems to win. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bama Hound on July 12, 2015 at 6:46am

Gary thanks for that link. I have been busy with other things and just now had a chance to watch that vid. I am kind of hard headed and have a tendency not to fix what ain't broke, but was impressed with the comparison. The guy was a little hard to understand, but I am hard of hearing. The guy did a good side by side comparison and the long term on plexiglass was great. I have been stuck in my way with Min-Wax poly. It flashes off fast and you can apply multiple coats in one afternoon. I will do about 5 and let it dry for 24 hrs, soft sand and do 5 more. Soft sand and then 2 for finish. I will rotate it to keep from sag until it flashes.It has to core for at least days before fretting. I learned the hard way not to fret before that. I have a terry cloth saddle I made to beat the frets in with a 2 lb. dead blow hammer. It left terry impressions on back of neck. Good news it buffs out with a car polisher and jewelers rouge, which also gets the fret tangs smooth as silk.

      I am going to stick with poly on the boxes as it will protect the labels not bad on yellowing over time and can be beat on after 30 days, but I am sold on doing a bunch of necks with Tru-Oil. Has anybody done a side by side or have any particular opinion about a brand. HD, K-M and Wally World are local, the rest are 50 miles (round trip) so Cabot is kind of off the list.Also if anybody would like to post their tried and Tru-Oil finish procedure, I would love to hear it. (;-D)

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• 4
• 5
• Next ›
• Page