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Permalink Reply by Mark Werner on December 17, 2009 at 1:45pm

I've painted a couple using standard artist's acyrilics; they are very versatile paints. If the surface is uneven, you can use acrylic gesso first to create a nice even ground to paint on.
Finish with nearly any kind of clear varnish...

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Permalink Reply by Diydc on December 17, 2009 at 1:50pm

Is that some kind of primer?
If so , do I run the risk of covering all of the stamps appiled to the original cigarbox?
Sorry if this seems a little stupid, but I really have little to no idea in this field.....

Mark Werner said:

I've painted a couple using standard artist's acyrilics; they are very versatile paints. If the surface is uneven, you can use acrylic gesso first to create a nice even ground to paint on.
Finish with nearly any kind of clear varnish...

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Permalink Reply by Mungo Park on December 17, 2009 at 3:48pm

Milk finish looks good it adds a color to the wood but some of the grain still shows, but it is not a stain.
It is not real extreme but could produce some tasteful effects.
Aniline dye also is something I use instead of stain, they will produce bright colors that are durable.
Cheers Ron.

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Permalink Reply by Skeesix on December 18, 2009 at 8:35am

Right, the gesso and acrylic paint would be opaque, actually covering over the wood grain. That would be nice if you wanted to paint some folk art on there for example. You might be able to simulate the milk paint effect with acrylic if you thinned it down some.

I've never used stains or dyes on a CBG, but if I did I would use the Colortone dyes I have sitting around for guitars. Kind of expensive though, from Stew Mac.

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Permalink Reply by Mark Werner on December 18, 2009 at 1:41pm

I've used standard Minwax stains as well. They are available in a variety of colors and are easy to use; again, you can use most any finish over them.
I use the dark walnut a lot on fingerboards to make 'em look purty....

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on December 18, 2009 at 2:18pm

I use just the tiniest bit of acrylic paint on a barely damp rag over a finger and rub it into the wood. If you put on too much, a clean damp rag takes it back off a bit. I'd be careful of thinning it with water - it will raise your grain on the wood, and surely sog up any paper labels. After it is very dry, sand it back down if you want that lived-in feeling. Looks like this:

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Permalink Reply by Diydc on December 18, 2009 at 6:03pm

Thanks Diane, that is a great tip I will try out at the next given opportunity. Suppose it would also work to create a sunburst effect on a body too. Just goes to show how simply some things can be done. Is a clear varnish worth trying out on top of rubbed in acrlyic , or would that not work at all? Sorry, but I`m not much of a chemist at all....
Diane in Chicago said:

I use just the tiniest bit of acrylic paint on a barely damp rag over a finger and rub it into the wood. If you put on too much, a clean damp rag takes it back off a bit. I'd be careful of thinning it with water - it will raise your grain on the wood, and surely sog up any paper labels. After it is very dry, sand it back down if you want that lived-in feeling. Looks like this:

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on December 18, 2009 at 6:09pm

I use quick dry floor varnish (water based, satin or matt finish) with a bit of food coloring added...quick, cheap and lo-tech..looks quite nice too in my opinion.

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• IMG_0015.JPG, 144 KB

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on December 18, 2009 at 6:39pm

Diane, Another winner.... my supply of "craft enamel" has dried up, so it looks like there's some acrylic in my future... I need to get back to painting some folk art tops... I really enjoyed them and they sell well.... the best, Sam
Diane in Chicago said:

I use just the tiniest bit of acrylic paint on a barely damp rag over a finger and rub it into the wood. If you put on too much, a clean damp rag takes it back off a bit. I'd be careful of thinning it with water - it will raise your grain on the wood, and surely sog up any paper labels. After it is very dry, sand it back down if you want that lived-in feeling. Looks like this:

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on December 19, 2009 at 3:50am

I put a bit of golden oak oil stain over it all after it is sanded for a bit of sheen and aging. Otherwise the newly exposed wood under the paint is a bit glaring. I bet you could use a darker stain with good results, too. I buffed it down with a clean cloth after about 10 min so the finish was nice and clean and very little dry time, if any.

Diydc said:

Thanks Diane, that is a great tip I will try out at the next given opportunity. Suppose it would also work to create a sunburst effect on a body too.
Just goes to show how simply some things can be done.
Is a clear varnish worth trying out on top of rubbed in acrlyic , or would that not work at all?
Sorry, but I`m not much of a chemist at all....

Diane in Chicago said:

I use just the tiniest bit of acrylic paint on a barely damp rag over a finger and rub it into the wood. If you put on too much, a clean damp rag takes it back off a bit. I'd be careful of thinning it with water - it will raise your grain on the wood, and surely sog up any paper labels. After it is very dry, sand it back down if you want that lived-in feeling.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on December 19, 2009 at 3:52am

Wow! those are really beautiful! Does the color hold up with time?

ChickenboneJohn said:

I use quick dry floor varnish (water based, satin or matt finish) with a bit of food coloring added...quick, cheap and lo-tech..looks quite nice too in my opinion.

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Permalink Reply by Diydc on January 22, 2010 at 2:45pm

Have been reading up on the subject, and apparently there is a high probability that natural food colourings will be affected by uv light, as in turn pale without extra treatment...

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