Comment

Comment by Wichita Sam on April 28, 2014 at 5:07am

string trees on paddle type head stocks are well placed just above the posts of the tuners closest to the nut and in line with the nut slots.

 

There are thousands of pics that you can look at for ideas.  Also (just a though) this thread has gotten hijacked into a "how to build" rather than special tools.  no problem, but you might want to look at the building forums or to a search with key words.... there will be literally 100s of posts on the subject.

Comment by gary sheldon on April 28, 2014 at 4:50am

Thanks for the tips, guys.  David, I like your headstock/tuner placement suggestion.  I do have wings on the headstocks.  I keep making them wider with each guitar.  Here are some headstocks.  The one on the left is factory made uke. I hadn't noticed before that the tuners are staggered.  I have thought about string trees, but didn't know where to place them.

I have some fairly exotic, thin reflective mirror material with the sticky back.  I will try it on a guitar neck for fret markers and see if it holds up and how accurately I can position them,  I can always take them off if I don't like them.  I'll buy a paper punch today.

I'm sure glad I found this site.  I don't know anyone here who is building these CBGs. 

Comment by Wichita Sam on April 28, 2014 at 3:55am

nice work Duck!  demonstrates the point that design for mechanical function and esthetics are not mutually exclusive.   Sometimes though, it's fun to play with different things that you can use for string trees.... String trees can do a lot to solve alignment issues.

Comment by Thomas "Duck" Petry on April 28, 2014 at 3:13am

Lots of different ways to do the tuner locations, but I like to keep them located so that the strings pretty much go straight line through the nut. It's fun to try different designs for the headstock.

Comment by Wichita Sam on April 28, 2014 at 2:08am

you can use a lot of things for position markers.  nails, screws, l like guitar picks, cut with hole punchs....the important thing is to have a flat bottom hole for good positioning and easy installation.  that calls for a fostner (or brad point) drill bit.  you can get cheap ones that work just fine in wood.

 

as far as the tuner positioning, that will be a problem with the close one unless you add "wings" to the headstock.... then no problem at all.  Can always to Fender style "swoosh" or classical style without wings works great too.

Comment by David McQueen on April 28, 2014 at 12:47am

Try small brass rod from a hobby shop. Mount. Nip of with nippers. Sand down the stub. I am using 3/32". My drill press chuck won't hold 1/16" drill and any thicker is hard to nip off. If you can find it, aluminum rod would probably also be good.

Comment by martin baker on April 28, 2014 at 12:45am

I have use epoxy , added color with good results on very close grain, but the "mix" will spread in open grain wood.

Comment by PhilUSAFRet on April 27, 2014 at 10:45pm

Just wondering if anyone has marked the fret placement, and drilled holes for the position markers, then filled the holes with a filler such as JP weld, or ???then sand flush and polish before installing frets?  Thought I'd ask before I tried it.

Comment by David McQueen on April 27, 2014 at 10:44pm

Hi Gary. For your tuners mount the first tuners as close to the edge of the head stock as you can. The second set, mount an eighth of an inch in from that. You can also try making your head stock longer and staggering the tuners. They should all wind to the inside and the strings not touch then.

Comment by stringybark on April 27, 2014 at 10:31pm

      Hi Gary, I am in Australia and here they use a hard white plastic tag to tie up plastic bags used for bread. I cut them with a paper punch, and use a flattened drill bit to drill the hole, then glue them in place. Sometimes I need to sand them flush,to the fret board , works good for me...cheers .

 

   

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