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Permalink Reply by Mister Scott on July 22, 2010 at 6:58am

Hypothetical question:
Let's say I get a 1/4" routing bit for my Dremel, and cut a nice groove in the neck for a truss rod. Then I either buy a rod, or make one out of keyway as Uncle Lou described above. Except that once the fingerboard is glued down over the groove, I find out either that the depth or width (or both) is slightly bigger than the rod. Won't it clang around whenever i move the neck?

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on July 22, 2010 at 9:08am

I have used those U channels meant to put shelves, the ones with the slots in them, on set into and Glued into neck and then the finger board glued on. Route your grove so the whatever you use just sets below the surface of the neck when trial fitted. To counteract the pull of the strings gluing is best,epoxy, slow setting. Truss rods have tape or the like wrapped around them to stop the rattle. but truss rods must be able to move to work. In fact the whole neck area has to have some give in order for a truss rod to work.
Don

Scotty C. said:

Hypothetical question:
Let's say I get a 1/4" routing bit for my Dremel, and cut a nice groove in the neck for a truss rod. Then I either buy a rod, or make one out of keyway as Uncle Lou described above. Except that once the fingerboard is glued down over the groove, I find out either that the depth or width (or both) is slightly bigger than the rod. Won't it clang around whenever i move the neck?

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Permalink Reply by Fitzhugh on July 22, 2010 at 1:11pm

regarding adjustable truss rods & rattle:
(n.b. I don't know what I'm talking about here, just regurgitating recent reading since I'm also figuring this out, had same questions recently)

Stewert Macdonald and other sites recommend a small amount of silicone caulk for this reason. I think I've read suggestions saying just a dab in the middle and at each end, not sure. I asked elsewhere here "why use caulk?" when I didn't recall the reason and a few responded saying nobody uses it, that is crazy, etc. I don't know what is right and haven't tried.
Might only apply to hotrod and two piece rods.
Something not always mentioned (and therefor I'm not sure about): some websites say traditional rods have to have a curved channel, and I know the fender blueprints show just that (hence the skunk stripe on some fender necks)... anyone know if this is true? Seems they'd work better this way. oh, and the curve is such that the rod is deeper (further from fretboard) in the middle of the neck than at the ends.


Per stewmac website: (note bathtub sealer comment)
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adjustable_truss_rods/Hot_Ro...
2. Set the truss rod into the slot. Although the rods are cushioned with PVC tubing, we recommend extra cushioning at the nuts to eliminate the possibility of rod rattle. Apply a small amount of silicone bathtub sealer in the slot at the double nuts, then press the rod as deeply into the slot as possible. Use only enough silicone for minimal squeeze-out. A spot or two along the double rods can also be cushioned by a little sealer.

3. The absence of glue in the neck slot will insure that the truss rod can be removed without “hanging up.” Therefore, it’s essential to avoid excess glue while installing the fingerboard. We suggest placing 3/4"-wide masking tape down the centerline of the neck, over the installed truss rod. Spread the glue over the neck with a notched glue spreader. Remove the tape and clamp the fingerboard in place. You’ll notice a small area on each side of the truss rod that has no glue, but if done properly, the glue will spread just to the edges of the slot and not beyond.

Adjustment
After the glue has dried thoroughly, the rod can be tested and used with care. Turn the nut clockwise to correct an upbow, and counterclockwise to correct backbow. As with any truss rod, if you encounter excessive resistance, the neck should first be eased into a corrective bend with clamps. The rod can then be adjusted.

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Permalink Reply by Mister Scott on July 22, 2010 at 5:03pm

Fitzhugh said:

regarding adjustable truss rods & rattle:
(n.b. I don't know what I'm talking about here, just regurgitating recent reading since I'm also figuring this out, had same questions recently)

No worries, Fitzhugh, that was a helpful regurgitation. Speaking on my future projects, it'll probably be a non-adjustable truss for the first few times, dig?

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Permalink Reply by Fitzhugh on July 23, 2010 at 7:59am

that was my plan too, only the hardware store had nothing I liked for a non-adjustable, and they had this cheap threaded rod that would just add weight unless it was compressed, so it was a might as well moment.

best of luck, post the results

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