I have been watching this speaker for awhile now. They are American Vintage model G8Cs, 20 watt, 8 ohm speakers. They are on sale for about 20% off and are supposed to sound bluesy. I listened to a a few sound clips for it and so I bought two. I have yet to build an amp, but I have been studying various schematics, teaching myself all this stuff with the help of several very patient members here. Thank you again. I have an enclosure mostly built to house a five inch 5 watt speaker I have and will build an LM386-based amp for my first one. (Ruby? Lil Gem?) Anyway, I would like suggestions on what would be a good next step for a build to power these nice speakers?
Or you could upgrade an old amp?
Thanks for that, I may try that later on, but I have a bag full of caps, resistors. pots. etc. I got from Tayda, per your recommendation, and some vero board I got locally. (They were out of strip board or I'd have gotten both to try.) Anyway, looking forward to trying something after I get that first LM386 built.
I used their 10" Veteran speaker in a amp build for a friend, it was a great sounding speaker and affordable at that time. They have a "Green Beret" Brit voiced speaker too.
Thank you Paul. I couln't find a lot of feed back from owners of these speakers, but what I read was all good. Your experience is very much appreciate it.
Would you guys have a careful newbie put these with an LM386, or something with a little more oomph, like a 384 or a TDAwhatever? I have two.
That WGS Veteran was good for 20watts, comes in 4 or 8 ohm and has a high decible rating. As long as your wattage isn't over 20 and you get the right ohm rating it will handle any Solid State chip Opamp or Tube amp within those parameters.
Just for reference, I know all that, Paul. Thank you. I guess what I have been trying to ask is there a more suitable amp to use than the LM386 that is a fairly easy build for an amateur?
The Ruby amp was the first amp build that I did. It was really easy and building on my own perfboard afforded me all the room I needed. You could use a breadboard if you want to. Don't let it intimidate you, use it as a fun learning experience that won't burn the house down or electrocute anyone if all fails. LOL
With resistors and film type caps, they aren't polarized so it doesn't matter which end gets connected to positive or negative. Electrolytic caps that are often used in the B+ circuit(100uf) and output to speaker circuit(220uf) are polarized and have designated positive/negative terminals. Only need to know which ends of the pots, JFET, 386 chip to wire up to the correct place as shown on the schematic/layout that BrianQ provided.
I'm sure that he'll help with any questions you have as well as I. Just shoot me a PM.
Thank you, Paul! That cleared up and confirmed quite a few things I was unsure of and some I had no idea...
TDA20XX (2003, 2030), are great, but they need a boost, first... if this is your first, build the LM386 (Ruby, Gem, etc.) to get your feet wet...
Building is fun, but I've found I can cobble together/modify premade boards cheaper and faster than I can build them myself...
But I think you'd be more successful with a tested and known circuit for your first project...
Thank you, John! I'll be building BrianQ's clean boost within a week or two, if plans work out. (...why do I hear Junior Kimbrough music all of a sudden?)
I've considered several of the premade PCBs and others, but with these cigar box guitars, I suddenly found myself in unfamiliar territory. I seemed to have acquired an urge to be a control-freak in that I want to build every piece that I can possibly make. Can't make tuners yet, nor strings, but I am trying to buy as little as possible. The buying is going to be in the amps that I want to build. Speakers are expensive.
It looks as though it's gonna be an LM386 Ruby to start with, unless I build that boost first...
Fun Fun Stuff!