Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dan Mullen on July 7, 2014 at 8:48pm

I would give the neck more time to cure.  That may take a few more days.  Bring it into a climate controlled place to reduce the humidity.  I have been using Truoil on all my builds and I have been happy with the outcome so far.  I cut the fret grooves in the finger board and finish sand it down to about 2000 grit.  Then apply about 3 coats of Truoil, giving each coat a day to dry and sanding with steel wool between coats.

Before installing the fret wire, I chase each slot with the fret saw to clean out the finish. The down side to this method is you need to be very careful with the files while finishing the fret wire.  I use a file on a block to angle the side of the frets after a new install, this cuts into the edge of the fretboard just a bit and requires a thin coat of finish once complete. I also fill the ends of the fret slots and use that coat to glue the filling dust in place.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 7, 2014 at 9:09pm

Yeah I will give it many days for sure. And I might try your approach next time with finishing before fretting wire ..
I'm looking for the magic solution that after sanding a neck with very fine grit sandpaper and the neck is baby smooth almost glass like...you can put on a few coats of ??? that looks like glass and protects without too much hassle. I may just be wishing for something that don't exist without elbow grease

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Permalink Reply by robert jones on July 8, 2014 at 12:14am

Ah, the search for the elusive magic solution... practice, practice, practice = experience. :-P

Get the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil that Dan mentioned.

One of the easiest protective finishes to apply.

It dries fast to a hard finish.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 8, 2014 at 4:54am

That's interesting they don't ship to CA. It's oil...??

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Permalink Reply by robert jones on July 8, 2014 at 6:05am

It's a mix of natural oils but people over in Cali are real delicate and every substance known to man causes them to break out in cancer.

To top it off it's primary use is for gunstock finishing ( shudder, the horror!) giving it a double whammy in Nannyland so if you have the miserable luck of living there you'll have to use subterfuge to get some.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 8, 2014 at 6:28am

I live in the very non nannyland part...I totally agree...

AS YOU ALL KNOW, YOU JUST CAN'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE AND HEAR, CAN YOU. NOW, - jimi hendrix

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Permalink Reply by robert jones on July 8, 2014 at 7:47am

LOL I worked in Tulares for about a year and that's all I could stand of it.

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 10, 2014 at 2:55pm

ebay sellers don't care about shipping to CA...  I still use Danish Oil, or boiled linseed oil.. takes longer to dry than Tru-Oil, but I have quarts of it laying about...

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 8, 2014 at 8:41am

Seems like steel wool 0000 is good. Might try some sandpaper also fine grit.

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Permalink Reply by Eric Kasten on July 10, 2014 at 7:59am

I make a fret board which I do not clear until its attached to the neck.  This way I can fret/file the frets separate from the neck. And the neck can be sanded and stained without the fret board... which equals less worries.  But I clear the whole thing once they're together with PolyAcrylic (water based = happy clean up).

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 10, 2014 at 1:32pm

Don't understand. The neck is the fretboard ? Although I sometimes glue an extra piece of wood for the fretboard...please explain

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 10, 2014 at 3:52pm

Cool. I like that. Thank you

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