For my next build I thought i'd use a old biscuit tin , i'm going to use the base as the top as I seems to have more of a ring to it than the tin lid , i'm not to sure about cutting holes in the top for sound holes will I loose the nice ring that the base has ? , any thoughts will be a great help , thanks .
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I didn't cut sound holes in the ukes I made out of lunch pails. I think the lid projects a lot of sound and the ukes are pretty loud. I attached the bridge to the lid with no tailpiece since the nylon strings don't produce as much tension.
For a guitar with a tailpiece or neck through, I don't know how different the results would be. I would be tempted to leave off the sound holes and play for a bit. If you aren't happy with the tone or volume, then cut. I also like to bias the bridge farther toward the rear of the tin compared with bridge placement on a wood cigar box.
You could also make louvered sound holes like on the top of a BBQ grill so you could open and close as you wish.
In my cookie tin ukes, I drill the sound holes in the sides with a step drill out to about 1/2 inch. Usually 3 on top and bottom. Lets out the good tin sound.
Thanks guys for all your comments , I've mocked it up with a tempory neck and strung it up i'll put a piezo in today and try it out ,
The only thing now is as it's a old tin there is quite a bit of flex in the top and base , it's a through neck with the neck touching the top a 1in either end and 1/2in were the saddle sits , so the next question will be bracing the tin , it's 9in x 9in x 2/12in , any pointers on bracing would be a great help ,
Where can I buy the wardrobe hanging rail fittings ? I can only find the ones with the screw holes in .
It sounds like you have it so the neck will carry all the load and the tin is just a resonator. I wouldn't brace the tin at all or you will dampen the sound.
try your plumbing merchant. ask for 22mm pipe support sleeves,might be what you need..
Those rail fittings came from B&Q
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