Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by The Capo Kid on June 4, 2013 at 9:59am

What measurement have you at the 1st fret and the 12th top of fret to underside of string , also I'd shim the bridge up until the buzzing stops , sounds like the saddles to low

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on June 5, 2013 at 1:35am

Tom when you built your reso did you put a downward pitch on your neck. That's why I make the saddle a bit taller so you can dail in the action by slotting the saddle.

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Permalink Reply by Tom Lauten on June 5, 2013 at 1:42am

No, I'm sorry to say I didn't....:(
I'll know for next time THAT'S for sure!

By the way, THANKS very much Randy, the sides arrived today and they are BEAUTIFUL! Mine fits like a glove and I know the bar slide will be received with gusto! Finally...I'm ELECTRIC!! Randy saves the day again! My new piezo rod is in and works beautifully.

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on June 5, 2013 at 4:11am

Like I said before Tom, I stand behind my work and will do what ever it takes to make sure my customers are happy with the creations they get from me.

 

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Permalink Reply by Tom Lauten on June 5, 2013 at 8:21am

Well I fixed the buzz but that bass string has no sustain to speak of when fretted and very little with a slide and its very quiet. It's not too bad when played open however.

So close but soooooo frustratingly far from what I want.

Would a brass saddle and a metal nut help?

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on June 5, 2013 at 7:29pm

There`s not enough downward pressure from the strings on the saddle. Hence the down pitch on the neck would of taken care of that. Only way I know how to correct the problem is making a string tree between the nut and the tuners and try some way to put pressure on the strings between the biscuit and the tailpiece. Next time you make a reso add a downward pitch to the neck then you won`t have any problems dialing in the depth of the saddle slots. As for getting the strings over the nodes on the rod, I found it really doesn`t matter if the saddle is slotted correctly. But that's just my opinion, and 1000`s of rod bridges that I`ve made and sold over the years.

 

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Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on June 5, 2013 at 8:21pm

You need more string break angle at the saddle. Do a flat metal bar or metal rod string tree between the saddle and the existing tailpiece. Two screws and a flat piece of metal hinge would do it. Might dampen it a tad acoustically, but I assume since you installed a rod piezo bridge, yer gonna plug it in most of the time, so this shouldn't be a concern. Alternatively (and more work), ditch the tailpiece, turn it into a string-through the top / body, like a Strat or PRS (or a SwampWitch). You can install a wood block inside the body, if there isn't one already, and drill holes through it all the way through the back. I have a Wichita Sam build like this.

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Permalink Reply by Craig Mayhem on June 5, 2013 at 8:41am

post pictures

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Permalink Reply by Tom Lauten on June 5, 2013 at 10:34am

What pictures would be most helpful?

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Permalink Reply by jawbone on June 5, 2013 at 1:59pm

I'm just guessing here and really don't have much experience but I found that if the strings didn't fall right over the nodes on the rod they seemed to have a diminished effect. You could see if that helps.

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Permalink Reply by Craig Mayhem on June 5, 2013 at 3:06pm

sideview especially. of the biscuit and then one of the body of the guitar and the bridge.

topview

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Permalink Reply by Wade on June 9, 2013 at 6:26am

Are your strings wound on the tuning posts so that the last wind is closest to the headstock? this can help with the angle as the strings are lower than the nut and will give a little more string pressure. Also slots should be cut at a slight downward angle towards the nut and I do the same on some of my bridges.

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