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Permalink Reply by Ben "C. B. Gitty" Baker on June 15, 2014 at 1:25pm

Brian... those uke bridge/saddle combos aren't made specifically to go with the uke rode piezos we sell, but they can be modified to work with them. A combination of deepening the saddle slot and filing down the bone saddle should allow it all to work together.

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Permalink Reply by Brian Tubb on June 16, 2014 at 10:12am

Thanks Ben... One other question - which way should the compensated bridge face - the break point for the first and fourth strings closer to the nut or facing the tail side of the Uke?

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Permalink Reply by Will King on June 17, 2014 at 11:41am

I ran into the same problem with CB Gitty bridge/saddle.  The saddle is for a Baritone uke (Compensated) and was too thick to fit in the concert uke bridge slot.  GCEA  saddles are straight, so I made my own from a thin strip of Corian.  For the depth of the bridge problem, I used a 1/8 inch router bit in my drill press to cut all the way through the bridge and after I glued and pop riveted down the bridge, the rod piezo sits right on the sound board.  With a little sanding of the saddle, to adjust the string height, I have a working uke.  Works with a neck through or attached neck.

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Permalink Reply by The Capo Kid on June 17, 2014 at 11:43pm

 Well if your going to glue the bridge down why not cut the slot right through and let the piezo sit on top of the box , you need about 3mm for the piezo and  about 4mm for the saddle so I doesn't pull over with the string tension , I usually set mine up first  I have a few softwood bridges to get my string height and action then measure the height you have and make the bridge you have fit that height .

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Permalink Reply by Brian Tubb on June 30, 2014 at 2:56am

Well, I've installed by cutting slot for rod so it sits directly on the box top (sound board) and put the saddle directly on top of that.  I wasn't getting even volume through the amp on all strings (specifically the first string), so made a bone saddle.  Now the top string is very crisp and clear, but the 2nd, 3rd and 4th are not - they seem 'distant'.  It has to be the way the saddle sits on the rod pickup I suspect, but it sure appears to be sitting flat on it.  Is there as way to get this to have even pressure on the pickup?  I'd rather not glue so it will be able to disassembled if necessary, but will do that if this will ensure better sound...  but then again, once glued, it doesn't seem there's any turning back!  Thoughts?

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Permalink Reply by The Capo Kid on June 30, 2014 at 6:07am

Well Brian if the piezo sits on the box and the saddle on top the bridge should be loose , are all the little bumps on the piezo under each string , is the slot for the piezo a snug fit if it's too tight it will affect the output same with the saddle , what I do with mine is I cut the bridge in half , sand two small pieces to the same width as the piezo and the same with the saddle , glue the bridge together with the two small in between then you have a nice snug fit .

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Permalink Reply by Brian Tubb on June 30, 2014 at 6:45am

I think I got this resolved.  What I did was take a metal punch and lightly tapped on the top of the saddle and the volume was substantially lower at the string locations corrosponding to the ones with volume issues.  I then looseded the strings and slid the saddle out.  Then tapped across the rod and got even sound through the amp.  I sanded the saddle so it was slightly less thick and put back in and tapped again.  One section still not same volume, so sanded a little more.  Volume is even now.  I think my saddle was too snug.  Thanks for the reply

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Permalink Reply by jawbone on June 30, 2014 at 8:08am

Hi Brian - I had started a reply then got sidetracked by my granddaughter - It happens!!! - One other idea I had was that if the saddle had too much mass, could it absorb the vibs before it gets to the rod. Just a thought.
But if the saddle can't sit down firmly on the rod - it can't transfer the vibrations. You probably got it solved.

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