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I use a jewellers piercing saw (about $20) to cut tins.I support it using a v block (a scrape of wood with a v cut it). I've cut circles and squares with no distortion. It's also very fast.I drill a starter hole to pass the blade through.I tried cutting discs but they wear out quickly and are harder to control . Most tin snips bend or distort the tin. I have used discs and snips successfully but I find the jewellers saw very easy to use .They also cut 3mm birch ply quickly and without splintering (which is common when cutting with a coping saw).
On my latest cookie tin build I am not cutting at all.
I 5 minute epoxied a wooden bracing block on the inside pushed the edge of the tin over and hammered it flat.a similar block at the tail holds the neck flatish and 5 minute epoxy will keep the lot together
Squooshed the lid flat and hammered it down.
This will also give me some sound holes next to the neck
Will see soon if I will need some epoxy or side screws to keep the lid down.
As it is a Uke the neck is quite thin.
By only using my fingers till the last minute and only doing final flattening with the hammer.Getting the bottom to bend in was ridiculously easy as it was bending in the unstressed direction and I had a solid backing block to support the bend . Getting the top to bend out introduced some kinks but with a little patience and some gentle tapping with a hammer there were no issues. Even if there were I would have got away with calling them character features.;)
With the lid on this is what it currently looks like
Hey smilingdog -
Gosh - Can you get a smooth edge when you make a hole with that!!! :-)
Smooth edge is not a problem, it's getting your buddy to hold it still without shaking.
Bwaaaahaaaaaa!!! And he would send you the laundry bill.
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