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Permalink Reply by Greg on November 22, 2016 at 3:49am

* The first fret is 1-2mm more away from the nut.. can it have such an big impact? (it should be 3.368mm, it has 3.480mm)

* I brought the G string down to the fret (bout 3mm) the G# is +25dB

* I adjusted the bridge.. but I still don't get the right tone. The G# was bout +20dB after doing that. The bridge seems still too high. It's bout 5mm on fret 12. I think the bridge is still too high.

The tones are bout half note way up (bout -30dB) on fret 12. So if I play the G open (in Tune) i got a G# -30dB on fret 12.

Some frets are not straight, some have 1mm more on the bottom, due to sawing them by hand. Do you got some hints on this? :D

I thought about, leave it as it are, and play it only with a bottleneck. The other option would be to put a real fret on top of the fret i already have (of course clearing it before), or to put the mechanics down and the bridge at all, and hope that i don't get problems with the top of the box, but as I see it, it should be no problem, there's enough space.

What do you think, would be a good solution? At all I hope the height and some milimeters on the frets cause this problem.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on November 22, 2016 at 4:15am

If your frets aren't straight, unless you have won the lottery and randomly hit on fanned frets, i'd be tempted to pull them all and make it a slide only guitar, but , if you're determined, re measure your spacings on th fretboard, pull the ones obviously out, re saw, and re set those frets, then lift the tail of the neck, giving you a slight neck rake, it will lower the strings at the top of the neck, and get you closer, of course ,as you do this, you will have to take some material off the top of that block your pups are mounted on, all of it reasonably easy to do if you plan it, but if the frets aren't straight and in position, it's hardly worth it. Looking at your guitar again, if you do rake the neck, you might need to shim the bridge to clear the pups with the strings, the bridge pup should be ok, but the neck pup will require a higher bridge, or a lower pup, basically, plan what you want/need, and see if it works

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Permalink Reply by Shawn on November 21, 2016 at 3:22pm

So first off let me say nice looking build for your first one.
Your strings look like the action in close to being right but without a full side shot it's hard to know.

also is the neck flush with the box if so that's one problem it should be about 1/4 higher than box or your strings will hit the pickups when you fret it in the upper range of the neck( lower towards the body).
Intonation is set by the saddle adjustment screw on the back side of the bridge.

First get the guitar tuned up to pitch then fret say the G string at the 12th fret.
If the note is flat screw the adjustment screw into the saddle to make the string leangth longer, and if it's sharp adjust the saddle towards the nut to make it shorter.
Do this to each string till they all play the same note open and fretted at the 12th fret.
You will need to retune the string each time an adjustment is made.
When they all ring true open and fretted you now have your guitar intonated. It will be worth the time it takes and just remember it's the final step to a great playing guitar.

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Permalink Reply by Greg on November 22, 2016 at 3:56am

Thank you Shawn, hopefully I'll can show you some more in the future.

yeah the neck flush is one problem.. maybe I can set down the mechanic and hope that it will be enough space with the box top. I adjusted the screws on the bridge, but for example i got a B on the low string, on fret 12 it was a C -20dB now it is a C -50dB, but still not a B :)

I think it could be the strings that are too high on the bridge and the nut. :/

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Permalink Reply by Shawn on November 22, 2016 at 7:49am

A dime under the strings at the first fret after the nut is a good starting point for string height and a nickel on the 12th is how I set mine up to start then tweak it from there. Keep at it you will get it and learn a lot in the process.

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Permalink Reply by Fomhorach on November 21, 2016 at 6:06pm

Try some simple things.

Capo on the first fret, check the intonation. A capo there will basically isolate any problems caused by nut distance to fret 1. So take that bit out of the problem and have a check.

Play a middle note harmonic while the capo is on and do a comparison with that fret note. It's often wize to fix bridge compensation this way as you are setting intonation for the fretboard. Get this sweet and it will highlight any nut problems when you remove the capo and recheck full string harmonic intonation. String height plays a huge part in this so bring the height down before you set anything perminant.

Bridge compensation is very dependant on string thickness and if it is wound or not and how high the action is. So the slant people put on the bridge is individualistic to that guitar and string sizes. It has to be heard, not measured.

Looking at your photos I think your strings are sitting too high. When you press the string down it tightens it and raises the note slightly. You did say it was set up for slide just now so this might not be the problem after you lower the strings.

You can't really tell for sure from photos but I would hazard that string height coupled with your nut being slightly too far away from fret 1 will both play hazzards when you set bridge intonation. Do the capo thing.

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Permalink Reply by Greg on November 22, 2016 at 4:08am

Thank you Fomhorach, i think you're right! I have to work on the height of the strings, as well as 1-2 milimeters on the first fret. Does it really make such a big difference because of 1-2 milimeters? 

The capo thing worked pretty good.. the tones get better, but not close enough. I don't know if i should take everything down (humbucker / bridge) or put a new fretboard on it. But if 1-2 milimeters change the notes that much, i have to find a way to make the fretboard precise.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on November 22, 2016 at 12:47am

Sean makes a very good point, a pic side on will say a lot more, especially with a plain background, your neck pup must be touching or near touching the strings by the photo, if so it might be an issue. 

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Permalink Reply by Greg on November 22, 2016 at 4:22am

Enclosed some pictures for you. If you need some more, or measurements please tell me.

Thank u :)

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Permalink Reply by JL on November 22, 2016 at 3:42am

Picture #1 and #2 look like the saddles are all in a line and at the edge of the plate.  So I assume your fretted notes go sharp as you go up the fingerboard.

Sorry Shawn has it backwards, if the open string is in tune and the 12th fret is sharp, turn the end-screw clockwise as you look at it, (screw it in, righty-tighty) to move the saddle away from the nut.  this increases the distance from the 12th fret to the saddle and makes it less sharp. 

Retune the open string, test the 12th fret, and if still sharp, turn it in some more....repeat until open and 12th are both in tune.

when all the strings and 12th frets are in tune, there should be an obvious slant to the saddle positions..

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Permalink Reply by Shawn on November 23, 2016 at 4:23pm

Yep he's right on this my bad late night and comments do not mix well.

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