Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on August 12, 2013 at 5:55pm

Epoxy. The wood will break befor the glue will.

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on August 12, 2013 at 7:04pm

Super glue is better, cos u can replace em without damaging the fingerboard just a drop on the bottom of the tang will hold em usually. That said, you really do need a thin thin saw to do fretting. You can make a cheap one with a $4 scroll saw blade, a bolt and some scrap wood. I used to use a thin blade steak knife ;)

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on August 13, 2013 at 12:18am

If the fret slots are too big you could glue a thin strip of wood veneer in each slot, the type of veneer that comes in some cigar boxes.

You should really get the slots cut to the right size but still glue them in with a little wood glue, if the slot is too wide some of the frets will sit sideways and be uneven causing string buzzing. A junior hacksaw blade will be the right width, always dress the fret slots with a triangular shaped needle file in case you need to remove the frets. Guide the frets in properly from straight strips, the curved strips of fretwire cut off the roll are difficult to guide in, tap in with a plastic tipped jeweller's hammer.  Wait overnight for the glue to dry properly before dressing the fret ends. (-:

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Permalink Reply by Wade on August 13, 2013 at 5:00pm

A drop of thin super glue on the end of your fret after it is in the slot should get the glue where you need it.

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Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on August 14, 2013 at 3:34am

Try and get hold of a Gentleman's saw and you don't need glue the barbs on the fretwire will hold them in

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Permalink Reply by jawbone on August 14, 2013 at 4:07am

Here is just a thought - just yea or nae - for the proper depth, and I'm assuming you don't need to go too deep and you won't be pressing hard....
Would a stainless steel depth guide on either side of the neck work? If it was 2 or 3" wide the teeth should just slide over it with no harm???

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Permalink Reply by Bad Finger (Eric) on August 14, 2013 at 6:13am

A little drop of super glue and then clear varnish over the whole neck, frets and all when you are finished.  00 steel wool to polish and remove the varnish from the fret wire looks great while holding them in place nice and secure.

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Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on August 23, 2013 at 2:30am

Yep, super glue. If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, they sell a Japanese saw that is perfect for sawing fret slots for 10 bucks. You can make a small mitre box for it too, works awesomely!

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on August 25, 2013 at 2:15pm

Hi John

For your next build, try a saw with a narrower kerf (narrower blade). I'm currently using the Harbor Freight Japanese Flush Cut Saw (a pull saw) which has a kerf size of .024" (the right size for the fret wire I use). This saw can be ordered on-line at the Harbor Freight web site, and it comes recommended by quite a few CBN members. Before the Harbor Freight fret saw, I used a coping saw with pretty good result, the kerf being just the size for fret wire. I also have used a mini hacksaw, but it's kerf was too wide until I filed down the width of the teeth of the saw blade. That worked, but the mini hack saw didn't cut as efficiently as before. You can also buy real fret saws, but they cost big bucks. Of the 3 types of saws I've tried I like the Harbor Freight the best. Here's another link to a CBN thread about this saw. I haven't modified my saw by adding a depth (of cut) gauge as Wes has in his article, but it seems like a good idea if you are equipped to drill 2 holes in hard steel.

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by Mark Bliss on August 26, 2013 at 12:11am

John: ultimately the answer to "fixing" what you have depends on how much too wide the slots are cut. A little wide and the advise already given will work.

 

Jawbone: I would avoid a guide arrangement that had the teeth riding on any metal. A good fret saw, no matter the source, works best with nice sharp teeth. Take a look at the simple depth guide arrangement on the Stewmac saw for a better idea.

 

I would add that even with a good saw, proper width, depth, radiusing of the opening of the cut, and so forth, softer alternative woods have sometimes given me problems. I have tried different adhesives and am not sure theres a great deal of performance difference between choices, it may be a matter of preference, and concern for effect on the finished product.

I have tried superglue, both putting it in the slot and letting it dry before installing the frets and wicking it in under the installed fret with varying degrees of success. But both will work. I am personally not fond of working with epoxy on such a small/fine scale, maybe I just need a different method. My favorite so far has been to use wood glue. I use a plastic tray with a small amount in the bottom and a flat peice of plastic as an applicator. Just enough to "swipe" through the slot with no extra run-out and install the frets, clamp (lightly) with cauls overnight and then finish the ends and dress, being somewhat careful to always file toward the neck so as to not pull any loose. Has worked every time.

 

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on August 26, 2013 at 3:14am

Wood glue is a good idea cos it'll toughen up the fingerboard right in the slots where it need a it(as will thin watery ca..) but do you find contact with the metal in the frets discolours the glue and makes that ugly black stuff?

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Permalink Reply by Mark Bliss on August 26, 2013 at 6:02am

I've never noted any reaction or discoloring with Titebond, I'll have to take a closer examination.

But I am very careful using the described method to not have any excess glue showing either.

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