Hey CBG-ers.  I am attempting my first scarf joint, and had a few questions. 


When finishing your scarf joint (all glued together), how much of a seam can you still see, none at all, easily see or just a little. 


If you do have a seam after finishing the gluing, what are you methods for making the seam not so apparent?  Will painting or staining take care of it?


I can`t get my hands on any good gorilla glue here in Japan.  BUT I think what I am using is pretty strong.  Do many of you who DO NOT use gorilla glue have good results with your joints?


I am following the tutorial in the HOW TO SECTION of the website.  Are there any other tutorials that any of you follow that might have some added insite?


Am I thinking too much on this, or should I just go with it?


Thanks for your time.  And happy building to all of you.



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Most of us DO NOT use gorilla glue.
Titebond ( I use original red label) wood glue, or whatever you can get your hands on there, is what you need.
Main problem is gorilla glue expands ...... that's not what you want.

A good piece of wood with a good straight grain can give an invisible or easily matchable seam. And sanding always helps blend a seam.

Mostly I don't worry about it, and work with what I end up with.

btw- Yeah, yer thankin' too much .. this is a Nike job.

Just do it!
I use a taper jig on a table saw for cutting. If you do a web search on scarf joint cutting jig you will find many. They are all similar. Here is a link to some some neck building information you might find helpful.
http://liutaiomottola.com/construction/NeckBlank.htm I too just use plain Titebond woodworking glue.

One trick I found on the web for clamping is to align both halves of the joint and then use masking tape at the back part of the seam (dry fit). Then fold back the headstock piece, apply glue on both pieces, fold back and clamp. I tried all sorts of jigs and this works better than anything and is fast. The tape does a great job of holding the two halves in place so I can get the piece clamped down properly without the two pieces sliding all over.
Great idea! I've build boxes and other shapes with the masking tape hinges you describe and it worked really well. And your placement of the clamps is inspired! Do you place the one nearest the joint first (the upright one)?

The classic Jim Farris Scarf Join Video. Build the jig!

Here is another discussion about this: http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/class101/forum/topics/the-elusi...

You can either hide the seam under the fingerboard, or leave it on the head. I've covered mine with paint, some people veneer or use a leftover box graphic.
No, you're not thinking too much. Even on a CBG, careful planning will help ensure you'll be happy with your build. As said, do not use Gorilla Glue. Tite Bond is great stuff. If you have access to a table saw, here is a great jig plan. I built one from scrap in a couple of hours:
The tricky part of the scarf joint is being sure the blade and jig fence are both 90° so you get a good straight, no-gap cut.
Here's the top of my first scarf joint. Not invisible, but not bad considering I cut it with a hand mitre saw!
Good luck!
if you can't get titebond (RED LABEL!), use hide or gelatine glue. there is a recipe here in the Secrets of the CBG Underground for 'Oyster Glue' which uses gelatine. I'm sure you can get that in Japan.

if your concerned to cover the seam if you have one just apply a mix of super glue and sawdust to it from where you sand the neck and it will cover the seam and you can sand it to look seamless. ive done this on one or two that i did for customers. on my own i don't usually worry about it. good luck.
I concur. AVOID Gorilla glue. Its messy as all hell, entirely too expensive and tests have shown that it isnt nearly as strong as Elmers white glue the kids use in school. Most of us here primarily use Titebond glue.

To avould seeing a glue line you need to make your cut as straight as possible. The joint needs to be as smooth and flat as you can get it. The tighter the joint, the less visable the glued joint will be.

I personally will drill 2 alignment holes for small dowels through my headstock prior to cutting. Then after I make the cut and flip the extra piece over I glue and drive in the dowels to keep the joint from sliding. Then clamp it.
I second the "no Gorilla Glue" sentiment. That stuff is crap in my opinion, Titebond 1 all the way.

Just to piggyback on the whole scarf joint thread I had a question for you all? What degree scarf joint do you use? I read some stuff online and ended up using 13 degree's like a Gibson, but it still seemed kind of steep to my eye.
The jig I cited above is 15º. Jim Farris's jig is adjustable, which is a nice feature. The table saw I inherited is small, with a 7 1/4" blade that just barely clears the 1x2 with the stock right on the table, so I can't use his design.

Jeff said:
I second the "no Gorilla Glue" sentiment. That stuff is crap in my opinion, Titebond 1 all the way.
Just to piggyback on the whole scarf joint thread I had a question for you all? What degree scarf joint do you use? I read some stuff online and ended up using 13 degree's like a Gibson, but it still seemed kind of steep to my eye.
Thanks everyone. I have tried two scarf joints so far. It is not as easy as it looks.

One problem, because I do not have a table saw, I had to go to the hardware store to get my cuts. I don't think the guy did too good of a job.

I am trying my best to get my pieces together with NO seam, but it is just not happening this time around.

Another problem is that my head stock end is a milli or two higher than the neck end, so it will make problems for when I glue down my fret board. I mat have to have the fret board area plained again at the hardware shop. OR just try to file that area down. Any ideas?

God I wish I had the proper tools (table saw). Life would be so much easier.

Thanks again for all of your comments.



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