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From an old issue of Fine Woodworking (can't recall the date), you can make a toner by tinting Watco, Minwax Antique Oil, or boiled linseed oil with artists' tube oil colors. Supposedly, with a small palette of burnt and raw umber and sienna, and black, you can replicate any known wood tone. Other colors work well, too. No reason you can't take a tube of green oil paint and make a green stain. Note that the ordinarily slow-curing artists' oils will be accelerated by the dryers present in the oil finish.
For ideas on decorating CBGs, check out Doug Thorsvik's photos. He combines wood burning and batik (patterned cloth) to decorate his guitars and basses. Here's an example:
He does beautiful work. The dark brown/black colors on the body and headstock are made using wood burning tools while the blue pick guard is batik fabric covered board coated with kind of glue. That's a cool guitar strap, too. To see more of his photos, click on this link.
-Rand.
Back to the topic of home made stains. Remember these are stains and not paint. I did a pretty good job at applying the "Umber and Sienna" stain, because I put it on rather thin. Then, when I applied the Iron Oxide Black stain, it only left a gray stain, so on my next coat I heaped it on, painting it with a bush and left it overnight to dry. Well, it ran a bit, so the borders of where the black ends and the brown begins looked bad. Plus I found it didn't completely dry and I got finger prints all over the place. So, I applied one coat of polyurethane on the brown parts, then let that dry and then I washed off the black. I still have more sanding to do to make it look better. Then I'll touch up the brown, stain it, and then come back and do the black. Maybe I'll use paint if I can get the deep black I want. Well, that's all for now.
-Rand.
Here are a couple of photos showing the progress I am making with staining the wood. In the first photo you can see how the Iron Oxide Yellow looks. I didn't like that, so I used a coat of "Umber and Sienna" on top of the yellow and got the results shown in the second photo. Definitely more brown, an almost natural wood coloration.
Here's the Iron Oxide Yellow:
And here it is again with a coat of "Umber and Sienna":
As you can see in the second photo, I tried to color the accidental fret (finger) positions black using a very thick coat of Iron Oxide Black. It turns out that this thick coat of black was not dry and came off easily, resulting in a lot of black finger prints. The lesson learned, use Black Iron Oxide in thin coats. I think next time I also won't do an under coat of yellow and "Umber and Sienna". Maybe by the third coat, the black iron oxide could not be absorbed into the wood. I have washed off the excess black and will sand the wood once it has dried and try again.
-Rand.
Hi Chuck,
Sorry, I didn't notice your reply to this discussion. Yes, oil paints might make for some interesting wood stains when diluted a bit with some other oil. I haven't tried this yet, but yeah, that would open a wide range of different color options not limited to the various shades of brown associated with wood. Right now, the "Umber and Sienna" pigment mixed with cooking oil is my favorite, and it does seem to have the potential for many different shades. But I suspect if you want to darken it up, you just need to add a very little bit of Black Iron Oxide, as a little seems to go a long way. I'll have to check out the artist supply store (part of 'Book City') - there's one in here in NanShan and I know they sell oil paints.Thanks for the suggestion.
-Rand.
Chuck Dubman said:
From an old issue of Fine Woodworking (can't recall the date), you can make a toner by tinting Watco, Minwax Antique Oil, or boiled linseed oil with artists' tube oil colors. Supposedly, with a small palette of burnt and raw umber and sienna, and black, you can replicate any known wood tone. Other colors work well, too. No reason you can't take a tube of green oil paint and make a green stain. Note that the ordinarily slow-curing artists' oils will be accelerated by the dryers present in the oil finish.
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