Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by BenBob on July 5, 2010 at 7:52pm

Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

Wade said:

You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass

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Permalink Reply by NoxTerran on July 6, 2010 at 12:47pm

i build nothin but bass and personally i agree with Towe on this one, BASS tuners are the way to go, i use eyebolts myself but i am also a cheapskate. as for neck, i dont know much about teak so i cant comment on that but i prefer oak, works beautiful in my work. hope that helps

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on July 6, 2010 at 11:33pm

I had to look up the Janka hardness test, it turns out to be a means to grade wood for use in flooring, so what is good for a fingerboard ,hardness, may not be good for a neck, stablility and resistence to flexing.
Don

Don Thompson said:

Matt, You are spot on, there are many wood species that spank teak in a number of areas, ability to resit bending being one of them. It's a member of the birch family I think which is not known for it's inherint strength, but very stable. Should have been more exact in my praise.
Don

Matt Towe said:

Don Thompson said:

Teak is one of the world's strongest and most stable woods. isn't that good for a neck? It can dull tools.
Don

Matt Towe said:

I don't have a problem with the tonal qualities of teak ........ I just don't think it would be strong enuff w/out a trussrod.


Matt

Really? I knew it had good lasting and waterproof (?) properties because of the marine use, but looking at the Janka wood hardness scale it comes in way belom oak, ash, etc.

btw- never worked with it ( not a wood worker), just using the almighty internet resouces.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on July 6, 2010 at 11:41pm

The use of quarter sawn has been around for a long long time, very doubtfull that lutheriers are going to rethink it. It becomes a moot issue when a adjustable truss rod is installed. A Fender and most other electrics necks are flat sawn because it doesn't matter.
Don

BenBob said:

Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

Wade said:

You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass

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Permalink Reply by Andy White (Noisetop Guitars) on July 9, 2010 at 11:36am

Guys - it's built.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vklR0khwzNc

I am still waiting for bass tuners to arrive - so i stuck some electric machine heads on to experiment - and they actually work!

Anyhow - it's a bit rough looking but was always more of an experimental prototype - Am defo gonna make an upright when I have souced a real big box (might need to make the box)

Thanks for all the help guys - really appreciate peoples point of view - and a bit of healthy debate never hurt anyone.

Andy

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Permalink Reply by Wade on July 10, 2010 at 2:49am

I've built quite a few 3 and 4 stringers with flat and quartersawn. Unfortunately all flatsawn necks(poplar) did bow. The good news is that if you are choosy, I have found quartersawn wood at HD and Lowe's. I believe the tighter the grain the better, also

BenBob said:

Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

Wade said:

You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass

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