Glad to be here and here goes my first post.
I have some nice gym floor maple and would like to use it for a neck. I figure 1 1/2" to 2 " wide should be good for a 4 string. Any preferences for how thick the neck should be?
And I know it is in here somewhere but any preferences to length.
I have no built a CBG before but have done woodworking and have some tools.
Plan B would be to use oak.
I can not add much detail as to what the build is as I do not know, I was thinking reso but thought it would be a bit complicated for a first go. Still hunting for a Cigar box.
I can not play, but my son would like to have a CBG to play.
Cheers Ron.

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.75"

Its actually the true dimension of a 1x2 (.75"x1.5" in American wood standards) but make make sure its strong wood OR put in a reinforcing bar of sorts. I use 1/8x1/2 iron bar to do that. I have pics if you want.

Not to sound rude but it's not rocket science. Its pretty simple stuff you're dealing with here.

-WY
Oh and keep it simple. 3-string models are popular for new builders (tho my first was a 4). You mentioned 'reso'. Yeah, might be a little advanced tho after a few builds you could do it. Take a look at the plans on the site here. Brian Lemin has one good set. I can also send a CAD-like file if you want.

-WY
Yeah... you wanna make sure you leave enough wood so you won't weaken the neck. Other than that though, just go with whatever feels comfortable. If it feels good to you, that's as good a reason as any to do it.
Thanks for the help, no insult taken, advice like is what the Dr. ordered. Sometimes as a nubie it is hard to tell if it is rocket surgery or not.
I will rough it out and see if it will stand up, if not I can add a bar to it.
Cheers Ron.
I think most builders use single wood necks and they work fine.
I prefer to build 3 stringers using 2 pieces of 1x2 laminated together to form a very strong "log".
From that I then shape my neck by just "sawin off anything that aint a neck" until the basic shape is there and then sand until I'm happy with it.
It probably takes a little more time building 2 piece necks but I always did it that way when I built banjo's and it may even be more habit then function for me now.I DO think that the 2 piece necks are stronger though.
As far as I know with somewhere around 300 builds built and sold, I've not had 1 single complaint about any sort of problem , let alone a neck bugaboo.
I'll continue building 2 piecers I think.LOL
Just join in and build that 1st CBG, but when you do, know that you just joined a club for which there is no cure,,,except that NEXT build,,,
You know, one of the things Wichita Sam and I do (independently) is to prototype whenever we have an engineering problem. [I] usually do it with cheap wood and/or pressboard to see how it works and get the engineering right.

Roger +5. I am now experimenting with the laminated two-piece neck (two 1x2's to form one 2x2 and saw it down). I'm sure Roger is right about the strength being the wood is 1) laminated and 2) grain is running more vertical than would normally be.

-WY
1 1/2 is about right for a 4 stringer...
thickness depends on whether or not you're adding a fretboard to it.... and what you're used to/comfortable playing... I like thinner necks the wider they get.... But you can do some stuff by shaping the neck to make a thicker neck seem thinner ("V" shaped profile for example) 3/4 up to 1 1/8 total thickness works... But I have really large hands...

Gym floor maple (recycled?) should be plenty strong. You may want to double it inside the box if you a cutting more than 1/8 recess to free the top for vibration/volume.

Stick with a simple neck thru design for your first couple builds... Resos demand that you "build the box" (strengthen it and use advanced neck attachment schemes.

Finally, if you can't find a box, let me know.... I'll send you one for shipping cost... I have about 400 so should be able to find you something

the best,

Wichita Sam
Great info. Yes re cycled, looked like something that would conm in handy, I have had it for a while, and it will be perfect for this.
I have small hands, but from this I will be able to work it out.
I was thinking of a aluminum bar as steel one might make it a little neck hevy.
Sam let me check local for a box first, great of you to offer, I have not said no yet.
Cheers Ron.
Sam:
I called the only cigar shop in town and they sell the boxes for chump change. I asked if they had any real nice ones with non paper hunges, and they took my name and will call me when they have a few for me. Lots of the regular ones.
Thanks for the offer but I will go local for the first go around.
Is their any type that I could get for you in Canada that is not around south of the border. I know the locals go for the cubans in a big way.
Cheers Ron.
If you stay with hardwoods, you shouldn't need a truss rod on a 4 stringer.... The only problem's I've ever had was with poplar that I over thin with not seperate fretboard, even then with a "loose tuning" (24"scale, electric light strings and open D tuning) this has become one of my fav. players (fretless slide... real "sloppy")...

with maple or oak or hickory or other hardwood, you shouldn't have a problem...

Mungo Park said:
Great info. Yes re cycled, looked like something that would conm in handy, I have had it for a while, and it will be perfect for this.
I have small hands, but from this I will be able to work it out.
I was thinking of a aluminum bar as steel one might make it a little neck hevy.
Sam let me check local for a box first, great of you to offer, I have not said no yet.
Cheers Ron.
Thanks Sam, that will make things more straight forward. I have some nice oak for the fretboard.
Cheers Ron.

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