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I'm not very experienced at this, but the first Uke I built has the strings attached to a fork on the tailpiece. They lay across a floating bridge. I get really good sound from this. The main reason I did it this way was to avoid having to find a way to attach the bridge tight enough to hold against the tension of the strings. The one I am working on now will have the strings attached at the bridge. Trying to decide if I want to use really strong glue alone, or combine glue with screws coming from the inside. Not sure how this will affect the sound. Maybe someone else with more experience will chime in here and enlighten us.
Here is the first one.
And here is the new one.
I too prefer a floating bridge and I haven't heard that much of a difference in tone between a fixed and floating bridge. Bridge placement on the soundboard is in my mind more important.
Don
All my ukes have been glue on.
Thought I was doing great, once I did not sand completly through the label paper and into good wood. Everything was fine for a couple of days, then when doing a final tune, the bridge popped off. re-sand, re-glue and everything is ok.
I have used floating bridge for CBG's and have screwed them down. They all work. I do like the screwed with some adjustment to allow for intonation. This gives you some wiggle room....good luck.
What kind of glue do you use? I have some of this. Will this work, or do I need something stronger?
herb Berwald WWW.CigarGuitar.com said:
All my ukes have been glue on.
Thought I was doing great, once I did not sand completly through the label paper and into good wood. Everything was fine for a couple of days, then when doing a final tune, the bridge popped off. re-sand, re-glue and everything is ok.
I have used floating bridge for CBG's and have screwed them down. They all work. I do like the screwed with some adjustment to allow for intonation. This gives you some wiggle room....good luck.
TB is plenty stong, but very slippery until it sets up. The trick is to keep the bridge from slipping during the gluing process:
(1) Dry clamp the bridge exactly where you want it.
(2) Drill a couple of pin holes through the bridge and soundboard. You can do this in the saddle slot if you have cut one already, or you can drill holes toward the ends and fill them later.
(3) Glue the bridge with pins in the wholes to keep the bridge from slipping during the clamping.
(4) Let it sit overnight and then remove the pins. You can heat the pins with a soldering iron to soften the glue if they don't want to come out.
This works well for fretboards too. Just make sure you're drill bit and pins are smaller than the width of your fret crown.
Mitchell Boren said:
What kind of glue do you use? I have some of this. Will this work, or do I need something stronger?
herb Berwald WWW.CigarGuitar.com said:All my ukes have been glue on.
Thought I was doing great, once I did not sand completly through the label paper and into good wood. Everything was fine for a couple of days, then when doing a final tune, the bridge popped off. re-sand, re-glue and everything is ok.
I have used floating bridge for CBG's and have screwed them down. They all work. I do like the screwed with some adjustment to allow for intonation. This gives you some wiggle room....good luck.
What kind of glue do you use? I have some of this. Will this work, or do I need something stronger?
herb Berwald WWW.CigarGuitar.com said:All my ukes have been glue on.
Thought I was doing great, once I did not sand completly through the label paper and into good wood. Everything was fine for a couple of days, then when doing a final tune, the bridge popped off. re-sand, re-glue and everything is ok.
I have used floating bridge for CBG's and have screwed them down. They all work. I do like the screwed with some adjustment to allow for intonation. This gives you some wiggle room....good luck.
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