Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on February 14, 2010 at 2:49am

"Flush Cut" saw... looks a little like a smallish Japanese draw saw, with a flexible blade.... I've used it on about 80 fretboards so far... also good for notching boxes for necks.... Harbor Freight, less than $ 10...

the best,

Wichita Sam

Permalink Reply by Matte Resist on February 15, 2010 at 11:39am

I use one of those that I bought at Menards. Same basic thing.

Permalink Reply by Grizz on February 23, 2010 at 2:17am

Bought the Harbor freight flush cut saw to use for fretting. One thing I noticed was that the blade flexes sometimes so I built a fretting jig to use with it. Works great so far. (see my pics) I did notice though on deeper cuts >¼" it seems to bind up in the cut, but may just be me. I think if you attached a spine to the top of the blade by riveting a stiff piece of metal that also may eliminate the flexing problem I encountered. Haven't tried that yet.

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on February 23, 2010 at 4:05am

Grizz,

I "solved" the flexing problem by using "blocks" of corian as guides above the cut line... I'm sure your jig does the same thing....

Darren Dukes (Back Porch Mojo) has a youtube using a scroll saw... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idnY9Y4Zvx0
I tried it this morning and if works fast and quick.

the best,

Wichita Sam

Grizz said:

Bought the Harbor freight flush cut saw to use for fretting. One thing I noticed was that the blade flexes sometimes so I built a fretting jig to use with it. Works great so far. (see my pics) I did notice though on deeper cuts >¼" it seems to bind up in the cut, but may just be me. I think if you attached a spine to the top of the blade by riveting a stiff piece of metal that also may eliminate the flexing problem I encountered. Haven't tried that yet.

Permalink Reply by Rick Martin on March 9, 2010 at 4:43am

I modified a Japanese draw saw as well. Though the teeth are small, I found that the kerf was a little thick cutting slots to accept fret tangs. So, I filed the teeth flat on the sides. For depth control I first filed the edge of a flat bracket connector flat, then drilled holes in it to connect to the saw. By loosening the screws I can change the depth as needed. Here is a pic of the completed saw. Not pretty, but it gets the job done.

Permalink Reply by Jon Pruett on May 12, 2010 at 5:32pm

In case you're still watching this thread, there is similar good discussion over here http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/inexpesive-fret-saw-and-...

I've had great luck with modifying one of these cheap miter saws and getting consistent straight cuts every time. http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/fret-saw-jig