Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by SlowHound on May 3, 2014 at 6:30pm

I usually, as mentioned, make it the last job and let it sit over night. However, I've taken the clamps off in as little as an hour and kept plowing along with no problems.

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on May 3, 2014 at 8:41pm

4 hours is my minimum as a rule for white glue although I prefer overnight, where I've had problems it's was because of poor joinery, not because I'd unclamped anything prematurely.

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on May 3, 2014 at 8:51pm

I don't think there's a definitive answer on this one - the manufacturers of Titebond recommend 24 hours for stressed joints. I generally make my glue joints and leave them overnight, so aim to get them clamped up by 4.00pm at the latest and so they are clamped for a minimum of around 18 hours by the time I want to start planing & sanding the morning after.

My own observations of using Titebond over a number of years is that it needs a full 24 hours to really set and go hard.  The risk of unclamping early is that if there's any unevenness in the joint surfaces or springback in the timbers being joined, there's a small risk that the joint will creep ever so slightly. I've managed to part joints that had been clamped for  2 or 3 hours just by a fairly light accidental knock, so my observation is that 3 hours is really not enough - inside the joint, the glue may still be wet, even with a good tight glue line. The joint will hold enough for handling after a short period of time, but it will not have developed its full strength, so stressing it by sawing or by power planing etc can cause the joint to part.

In this instance, patience is a virtue, and my recommendation would be don't be too eager to get on with the next stage, plan to let the joint sit overnight, ideally for 24 hours  and get on with something else during the setting time. The other thing is, use good cast iron clamps, and plenty of them. I alway clamp really tight, and never have a problem with the glue squeezing out and 'starving' the joint. What you don't want is a thick glue line: generally speaking this type of glue is not a good gap filler, so accurate, flat jointing surfaces and firm clamping are essential for a sound strong joint.

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on May 3, 2014 at 9:36pm

Well said.  I guess the answer is "as long as it takes to be stable".  There are so many variables:  Humidity, porosity of the wood, amount of glue used, etc.

I've done 2 hours with Poly glue, as little as 3 with water based wood glue, but then again, it was 90F in the garage today, and about 5% humidity...  

John

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Permalink Reply by Sawbones on May 3, 2014 at 10:33pm

Ha,I'm in AZ so its always dry and hot.

I use Elmers wood glue(I know I'm gonna get crap for that)and its been the best.I've done many a broken headstock on electric and acoustic guitars.I always had problems w/ tight bond,its like it wouldnt cure,I've waited 3 days and it was still tacky.So for me its Elmers.I use a brush and get a nice even coat,then use the big C clamps w/ a peice of aluminum stock w/ a slight back bow as not to mar the wood and the tension when its strung.

But yes that is the worst,waiting for glue to dry.Mine can be ready in 4hrs,but after assembly,wiring,fretting,its another 3-4 hours,so its good to go.

Geat post!I have fears,cuz I dont know what the hell I'm doing!

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Permalink Reply by Larry Geare on May 10, 2014 at 2:39am

Howdy name  is L.C. Geare also in AZ . Looking for other builders in the area Drop me a line.

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on May 4, 2014 at 2:01am

I usually clamp titebond III joints overnight and well into the next day, sixteen hours at least and go easy on them, I plan my time around three glueing operations : 1) fretboard to neck, 2). body/ box strut to box (simultaneously with the fretboard operation), 3) box to neck assembly . :-)

To deter drifting I usually cut a criss cross pattern with a Stanley knife on the glueing surfaces before applying the glue.

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Permalink Reply by The Capo Kid on May 4, 2014 at 2:33am

 Good tip that Steve , Thanks .

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Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on May 4, 2014 at 3:17am

Yep some good advice here. Thanks to all who contributed.

So the definitive answer is: there is no definitive answer! :-)

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on May 4, 2014 at 5:18am

Be my experience, if you going to take the time to do something right. Let it dry overnight.

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Permalink Reply by Skeesix on May 4, 2014 at 5:26am

In design school they told us one hour minimum before you did wood operations on a joint. For example, planing, jointing or drilling. This would be with yellow carpenter's glue. That's the shortest length of time I've heard in this conversation.

In general though, for guitars and CBGs, I let things sit at least overnight, especially if the joint is going to be stressed with string pressure. That's a little different than just gluing a couple of pieces of wood together with no stress on the joint, and maybe that's why you hear differing lengths of time.

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Permalink Reply by Uncle John on May 4, 2014 at 5:42am

Hmmm.  Interesting.    I use Titebond in the white and also their product for darker wood.  There is nothing I can add to what has been said on clamp time.

 

However!   A related topic.   Sometimes I want to glue something other than wood.  Or maybe wood to metal   Or maybe I want an EXPANDING glue.  Maybe I want to fill in space due to my crappy work.  Maybe I just want to strengthen a box at the corners by dribbling expanding glue down the corner.   I've used both Gorrilla Glue and Elmer's Glue All Max for theses purposes.   They are slow to cure - 24 hours,  sandable - not bad.   And they are super strong. 

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