Good question. I was a little vague. It's actually four parts. Two screws and two threaded posts
inside the box. Look closely at the picture. The holes are smaller than heads of the screws so the bridge is floating on the screws. It works very well. I have another design coming soon. Check stewmac.com and study the Tune-o-matic bridges. I found this was the missing link in the slide/
fingering transition. Hope this helped.
Thanks for the nice comments Doug. It sounds very good w/ the nylon strings both unplugged and plugged in. The short scale keeps the tension low and it is very easy on the fingers, which is what I planned on since she is not a regular player, YET!
Bruce
Well Doug, I finished it up this morning. There are a few mistakes that I made. I'd like to bring it over some evening and let you look at it and critique it. It sounds better than I thought it would. I tuned it to GDG like you sugested and I haven't glued the bridge down. I hope you're happy with your base and making good music with it.
Jim
Thanks for your kind words Doug :o)
Iv often thought of making a branding iron to stamp my headstocks with, but its just another thing on the long list of things to do at the moment.
I do have a woodburning pen somewhere, but Im useless with it - seems you have it down though!
Keep up the good work
B
Doug thank you so much for inviting me over to watch you shape your neck. I did mine the other night. I bought a rasp and used it then finished up with a ro sander. I think it looks pretty good. Yes I would like to see your base guitar and hear it. I would like to wait until I finish my guitar so I could bring it over for you to critiqe it.
Jim
You are very welcome, Doug. Thank you for commenting on my tin. I haven't played it, when I tightened the strings, they are pulling the gromlets out of the string holes. I need to change to something else, but haven't done it yet. I did have plastic tops in the holes, but the strings just cut right through them, so I changed them to brass gromlets.
Hey Doug,
For the most recent build, I bought Artec's AB2 preamp (which comes with a piezo) off ebay. The preamp is pretty decent, I enjoy having a vol and tone right on the box. Yeah, it could be done with pots... but I think the active preamp really helps. Especially in comparison to the "radio shack buzzer" piezo's, this combo really stands out! Course it's around 30 bucks... but one of the first things I noticed is that it doesn't squeal at ya like the buzzers do.
Hi Doug. Was that you that I saw at the CONOCO station earlier in the week. I thought maybe it was but I didn't have time to talk. I have a quik request. Could you explain to me again about the zero fret? I thought I had it down but the more I think about it the more I wonder. The scale length I am working on is 20" tell me how the nut comes into play.
I discovered that the banjo neck I was going to use has a twist in it so I'm not going to use it.
Jim
You can pull down the whole fret template printing program at: https://api.ning.com/files/YRDxgtQY3DLus7dLdD5579jQaZmCq52RtfNqyKAFmWqsvw8jPZL0S1lw-wgAAPesTgLpuxP06viQ6De*1i1HcpGqo0Y4eq*U/Fret.zip As you consider attaching the banjo neck, you have to calculate if it is possible. Measure from the nut to the 12th fret. The scale length from nut to bridge is twice the length from the nut to the 12th fret. Now you should be able to determine if it is possible to do. Doug
Hi Doug, Last night I was fooling around with the programs you gave me . They will be very useful but the one that works out the fret template was only a short cut and I couldn't open it. One question. I told you, I think, that I have an old banjo neck. It's got a broken dowel stick and is concave where it attaches to the banjo pot. I want to trim the end flat to fit on a cigarbox. I'm assuming that if I cut off too much that would be a bad thing for the fret placement since the frets are already there and I can't move them. If that is correct do you have any suggestions?
Jim
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inside the box. Look closely at the picture. The holes are smaller than heads of the screws so the bridge is floating on the screws. It works very well. I have another design coming soon. Check stewmac.com and study the Tune-o-matic bridges. I found this was the missing link in the slide/
fingering transition. Hope this helped.
Bruce
Jim
Iv often thought of making a branding iron to stamp my headstocks with, but its just another thing on the long list of things to do at the moment.
I do have a woodburning pen somewhere, but Im useless with it - seems you have it down though!
Keep up the good work
B
Jim
For the most recent build, I bought Artec's AB2 preamp (which comes with a piezo) off ebay. The preamp is pretty decent, I enjoy having a vol and tone right on the box. Yeah, it could be done with pots... but I think the active preamp really helps. Especially in comparison to the "radio shack buzzer" piezo's, this combo really stands out! Course it's around 30 bucks... but one of the first things I noticed is that it doesn't squeal at ya like the buzzers do.
I discovered that the banjo neck I was going to use has a twist in it so I'm not going to use it.
Jim
https://api.ning.com/files/YRDxgtQY3DLus7dLdD5579jQaZmCq52RtfNqyKAFmWqsvw8jPZL0S1lw-wgAAPesTgLpuxP06viQ6De*1i1HcpGqo0Y4eq*U/Fret.zip As you consider attaching the banjo neck, you have to calculate if it is possible. Measure from the nut to the 12th fret. The scale length from nut to bridge is twice the length from the nut to the 12th fret. Now you should be able to determine if it is possible to do. Doug
Jim
Jim
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