I have just dug deep in my cupboards and found these aids to fret activities.
1. I have found a sharp knife the best for scribing fret positions
2. This is a circle cutter. A block of wood, holes drilled for radius that will fit handy nail to act as a fulcrum. A craft blade held in place by a nut , just screwed into the end grain. Many careful rotations until cut through. I have to say I used it on much thinner soundboards than cigar box lids, but it should work.
3. A file with wooden handle glued on it. Slide this up and down to equalize nut height if you have a problem. It will act like a plane but if you need more than just gentle adjustment, re do the fret! I use it also for chamfering the frets at the edges of the fret board.
4. A set of small round files as seen elsewhere on this board.

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Today I made Mark 2 of the Dremel fret slotting machine. This is based on a complex metal constructed machine i had many years ago and is reproduced here in wood and using a Dremel flexible drive hand tool with a 1 1/4 dia blade on it. PLEASE NOTE, my blade has not yet arrived and i have a 1 1/4 lid in place of the blade!! It serves for the prototype and photo demo. Basically the saw blade is cantilevered down to the correct depth for the cut then using the wing nuts..... fixed firmly in place. The un slotted fret board is placed on the fretboard platform, held firmly against the base board stop.....the blade is registered to the fret measurement mark and the fretboard platform is slowly slidden under the blade until the cut is completed. The cantilever for the hand tool is adjustable for height and the cut away on the fretboard platform allows for wide fretboards to be cut too. I used old "plastic covered" ( Formica ? Melamine?) shelves for most of this job and the dimensions were guided by by their size. These finish allows the boards to slide freely in the guides. It is essential that you have the saw blade and the fretboard square before you cut. Use some spare wood. once it is setup then you can cut boars quickly and easily. The fretboard platform should also slide freely but with "no" sideways movement. Do practice until you get it right. It must be square, the depth must be correct, the slide must remain square as you push it. It is not hard. The best idea is to set it up and do a few fretboards at the same time. It took me between 4 and 5 hours to make it. I had the wood, all the tools and the spare Aluminium. Lucky!

I have 8 pictures to upload. Perhaps it will need to be done in two posts.
Here is PIC 2

Very cool Brian you have been very busy , i like your idea mate ,a great set of pictures also ,thanks for sharing
juju
Here are pics of two sliders i bought today ($10 AUD) The blade came and works well but i have to thin it. I have to feed the fretboard through slowly as the Dremel will not handle a fast push. Here are the inevitable pictures in the how

it will help anyone who my decide to go this direction.
Well, I didn't find it in my cupboard, but out on my lanai... I used my Black & Decker WorkMate to press my frets into the neck. Hammered them in first, then clamped them down nice & tight with the workmate. Just be careful tightening, I have the cheap model and broke one of the plastic handles smooth off!
Thanks, Brian! Great info!!!!
Hand held fret press. Original tool is for installing window glass glazier points. I modified it by adding oak neck scrap and heavy felt pad. Works great for installing frets without danger of hammer marks or otherwise damaging fret board.
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Great idea. I see that it can be modified for other kinds of hand clamps. Thanks

Bluesheart said:
Hand held fret press. Original tool is for installing window glass glazier points. I modified it by adding oak neck scrap and heavy felt pad. Works great for installing frets without danger of hammer marks or otherwise damaging fret board.
WOW, the Dremel fret slotting machine.
That is too cool I have got to make one of those.
Does it work real good?

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