The rule for ukes is 90°.
I've never seen an angled saddle on a ukulele!
For slide-only guitars, an angled bridge is not required...only that it be set perpindicular to the strings at the chosen scale length (from nut to bridge).
But for fretted necks, the location and angle of the bridge relative to the scale length depends on the bridge itself.
For a bridge similar to one seen on an acoustic guitar, a good starting point is to set the center of the bridge at your scale length (i.e. if frets are set for a 25.5" scale, center of bridge begins at that measurement.
This is where adjusting intonation begins. Keeping the center of bridge stationary, rotate the ends of the bridge slightly, maybe 1/8" toward neck for small string and 1/8" toward tail for thicker string.
Tune guitar, then play harmonic at 12th fret on first string ...if tuner says its good, then fret the note at 12th fret...if tuner shows its sharp, rotate that part of bridge toward tail. If flat, rotate toward neck. You may need to relax strings while adjusting bridge, then tune up again and re-check.
Repeat this process for the other end of bridge.
Lots of videos on Youtube showing this process.
good luck
For my builds, the bridge is usually at an angle, slide or not. But that is because I use a threaded rod for the bridge and I use the angel of the threads determine where it sits. That way I don't have to make extra slots in the rod to hold the strings in place. The only thing I try to keep constant is to make sure that the center string is at the correct scale length.
Just remember....there are NO rules in building cigar box guitars. ;)
Jim is right, I forgot to add that point regarding ukes. Also the same for classical style acoustic guitars with nylon strings, but not standard acoustic that use steel and/or bronze strings (those bridges are angled for intonation).
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