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Permalink Reply by 14 buck bass (aka antonio) on February 1, 2014 at 4:30pm

Well , the good thing is you havent shaped the neck yet that I can see.  When I did that to one of mine I'll tell you what I did and it actually ended up working out nice for me. This may help you and save that stick.  First square where yout pencel line is anc cut off all that chipped off area.  then cut your board down the glue line frome the squared area back about 6 or so inches and again cut a squared line. only this time to the bottom board.  make it straight and try not to round the corners or edges.  clean it of all the glue. and re glue in another piece of wood. make it longer so it reaches out to a little past where the original head stock came to. if you glue em in tight , when you shape the neck and head stock you wont even notice the joint.  then when you go to re cut that bottom thickness of the headstock. remember you want it 5/8ths  for your tuners .  I really hope this helps. I hope it isnt confusing . if it is feel free to message me and ill explain it better. This is just my technique . a simple hand in pocket way. Im sure there are lots of guys on here that could point you out on other ways to do it . But I seen no one had posted so I thought Id give back .  Good luck. 

 

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 1, 2014 at 4:50pm

I understand the cut the messed up part (pencil line)to make it square (the headstock area) ..then I'm lost.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 1, 2014 at 5:31pm

Not sure how to pm you ?

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Permalink Reply by 14 buck bass (aka antonio) on February 1, 2014 at 6:03pm

just added as friend sorry

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Permalink Reply by 14 buck bass (aka antonio) on February 1, 2014 at 6:19pm

Jon, I just added you as a friend.  I also posted a couple pics on my page so you can see em. a picture is worth a thousand wordsright.  I oriented the sticks just like yours is in your picture so yours would be the same way.  you will see once you glue everything up the little step you were wanting to chisle out is already there. and once you shape the neck and headstock you cant even see the joint if its put in nice .  if thre is a little gap dont sweat it . just mix a little glue with saw dust from your stick and blend it in when you start shaping and it 'll sand right out .  or use wood filler if you stain. if you have any questions just pm.  go to the members online on the home page and click me and there you have the pm. thanks .

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 1, 2014 at 6:28pm

Thank you. I'll take a look . I appreciate the help!

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Permalink Reply by Jim Woods on February 1, 2014 at 6:54pm

if you are using tuning machines, you might be able to glue a shim on the back to make it thick enough.  Mine need  approx 5/8" thick.  Would  not have to be oak.  I have worked w/ red oak for some time & it is hard stuff.  Power tools really help.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 1, 2014 at 8:16pm

I am going to make a shorter neck from 25 to about 19....this wood is very hard...and really hard to carve without power tools for sure..
By the way for cbg's is there a minimum of how many inches a headstock with 3 gear tuners need be after the nut?

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 1, 2014 at 9:11pm

Shim is an interesting idea...wonder what that would look like

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Permalink Reply by Jim Woods on February 2, 2014 at 10:14am

This is one .  I now make the shim tapered & angle the relief cut ( wedge is cut from the relief ) for a modified scarf.

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on February 2, 2014 at 1:06am

Before I had access to a wood worker shop (in the Summer when I'm in the States), I used to avoid red oak just because it was very hard to work with hand tools. Instead, I'd work softer hardwoods like cherry, sapelli (sapele) and poplar with my hand tools. However, with power tools like chop saws, band saws, router table, drill presses and sanders, working with red oak is no longer a chore and I have build 4 instruments this past year using it for the head/neck and body frame of the "paddlebox" dulcimers I build. They have been popular with the international community here, so I think I'll build a bunch more this summer. Generally, I build the frames in the States, and finish building the instruments at a slower pace in China.

As far as your problem goes, on one of my builds I screwed up the headstock, so I cut it off and "spliced" on a new headstock using "in-line" box joints (finger joints) to maximize the glue surface area and the strength of the "splice". You could probably salvage your project using a similar strategy. However, if all you have are hand tools, shaping the neck will likely be a lot of work.

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Permalink Reply by DeltaglowBoy on February 2, 2014 at 6:32am

The simplest is to glue a 1/4 - 3/8 in piece on the bottom of the head Stock. I've done this on a number of builds intentionally .... usually about 5 inches long. This is an alternative process to cutting a scarf joint that is used a lot but I think this method is much easier and requires far less precision than a scarf especially if you have limited access to power tools.

Make sure it is long enough to extend past the nut placement (thus assuring proper thickness for the weakened area that's too thin). You can then glue on  optional wings and when completed will have a fine finished look.

Glowboy

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