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Permalink Reply by Mark Vickroid on December 26, 2008 at 4:46am

should work out well, although you may need more than a 3/4" thick neck....

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Permalink Reply by Doug Christensen on February 17, 2009 at 6:25am

To save routing work, be sure to curve the truss rod seat. Humm easy doing the way your thinking of, just trimm off the edge before laminating them together, though you will need the upper to lay on the rod if your going in from the finger board. Also you will need to add the 3/16ths inch for the finger board if you plan to install the truss rod under the finger board. 3/4 inch works fine and is within what could be considered a standard height. If you insert the truss rod from the back (like Fender) then you could keep the neck material all one piece, and not require a seprate finger board. I use the first approach. Nothing like wrapping a bicycle innertube around a newly created neck to hold on the new finger board during the gluing process! Enjoy that 1/4 wood, sounds like your more than halfway there. But not all my necks have a truss rod. I purpously pick the warped wood and turn around to my advantage, but sealing it completly (with a coating, paint) is the key to keeping it from changing it's shape back or more in the same direction.
What kind of wood is it that you are thinking to laminate with?

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Permalink Reply by Wade on February 17, 2009 at 10:46am

I have mostly oak. poplar, and some pallet wood( I think it's yellow pine, not sure) I just thought maybe I could build around the truss rod instead of routing. My current 6 string build is some old, thick oak flooring with no truss rod, but I know eventually I will have to try a truss rod. So Doug, are you saying the channel for the truss rod is slightly bowed?



shape back or more in the same direction.
What kind of wood is it that you are thinking to laminate with?

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