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I've only tapered a banjo uke neck I made a while back. It was my first time trying it and I only had a belt sander at the time. It worked but was slightly lopsided. I've done no tapers since then, but would like to try some more.
Non-tapered is just easier and I don't see a whole lot of reason for a taper on a 4-string instrument.
Non-tapered is just easier and I don't see a whole lot of reason for a taper on a 4-string instrument.
I have not used a taper for up to four strings; string spacing seems fine on my four-string resonator.
However, I have tapered both my mandola and my uke; I followed the dimensions listed for these instruments on various sites.
I did it the slow and painful way; marked it out and attacked the wood with a rasp and then files and finally sanding.
(Same technique I used to make longbows)
I did it the slow and painful way; marked it out and attacked the wood with a rasp and then files and finally sanding. (Same technique I used to make longbows)
I've been tapering them lately (sides and bottom) since that is what my customer(s) are requesting. Rough cut on a band saw, then rasp, spokeshave, sandpaper. Works fine. Nut width determined by overhang, string pack diameters, and spacing. The bridge/tailpiece end I generally have a material size constraint -- 1-1/2 fretboard and tailpiece stock, but I do workaround if need be. My six stringer I laminated together stock for a wider fretboard.
Huntz
I think if you play either slide or on the lower part(first position) no barr chords or leads it makes sense not to taper. lap steel guitars are not tapered. However since I play up and down the neck the upper frets which are closer together it gets awkward to play. Especially shorter scale lengths.
Don
Those were my thoughts, too! Thanks for sharing!
I taper everything these days (3, 4 & 5) stringers. I even tapered a short 20" scale CBG. My favorite player these days is the taper-neck three stringer.
I find the taper neck a little easier to play when fretting notes. For slide it doesn't matter much.
Once I had completed a simple taper fixture that fit into the slide groove on my table saw, cutting tapers became pretty much an no-brainer.
Oh, yea. A tapered neck looks good on most boxes.
Hey Tom, how about a pic of your tapering device?
Hi Thumper.
I'm away from home at the moment, but will drive back on Wednesday. I'll get a photo posted by Thursday. The taper jig for the table saw is actually quite simple, but is all that is needed.
I think it is just personal preference. I started tapering my necks on my last few builds and like the way they are turning out. Here is a pic of a 4 stringer I'm working on at the moment. It is tapered on the sides and has a slight taper on the back of the neck. It will also have a slight back angle when mounted in the box.
Richey Kay has some great How-to's on here on tapering fretboards and necks with nothing more then hand tools ;-)
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