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How to ensure neck is 'squared' to box

I am building my 1st CBG. Everyone has been very helpful answering my 'dumb questions' and I thank you all for it.

I am about to the point of attaching (gluing) the neck to the box. It dawned on me this is a very critical step. Do it wrong and I could end up with an unplayable CBG.

1) If the 'front to back' angle is wrong (angle of neck to top surface of box) I could end up with an overly high action or conversely (and worse), fret buzz on the 20th fret even when open. How do I ensure the neck is parallel to the box face? Do I even want it perfectly parallel? FYI, my fretboard extends about 1/4" above the box surface

2) If the 'top to bottom' angle (90 deg angle of neck to box side) is off then the strings won't run parallel to the neck and intonation might be impossible (?). How do I ensure the neck is perfectly perpendicular to the box side?

I 'assume' minor adjustments can be made for 1 via the bridge height and for 2 via the tailpiece. I'd prefer those 'compromises' be minimal.

I've watched videos how to build a CBG and it seems like the builder just slaps the neck in and that's that. Am I being too cautious approaching this step?

Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on June 9, 2015 at 2:59am

This is the kind of thing that some people (myself included) spend a lot of time getting right. Others are not so fussed.
I hold a carpenter's square against the box and along the neck. There is still a bit of eyeballing involved but just make sure you're happy before attaching. I would also recommend screwing rather than gluing the neck.
I would say you may be slightly over thinking your first build. Just have fun with it, and learn from anything you wish you'd done better.

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Permalink Reply by Westsailor . on June 9, 2015 at 3:56am

"I hold a carpenter's square against the box and along the neck."

That was my first thought for 2). I felt that would square it up enough to make any adjustment via the tailpiece minor.

My thoughts on positioning the tailpiece is to string it (lightly) with top/bottom, 1st & 4th strings prior to actually installing the tailpiece and use the strings as a guide. Is there an easier way?

"I would also recommend screwing rather than gluing the neck."

Very good idea. At least then it's not totally permanent if I'm not happy with the end result. It would also allow me to shim (or shave) the rear spacer block if the action turns out to be 'off'.

Maybe it was different 'back in the day' but as a musician accustomed to 'real' guitars I'm finding out it's not as simple for something as 'simple' as a CBG. And that's half the fun. It has certainly heightened my admiration and respect for the luthier that builds acoustic guitars from scratch.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on June 9, 2015 at 3:44am

With the ability to adjust action height using the bridge and nut, It is not ultra-critical to make the neck perfectly parallel with the top of the box, but getting it so isn't that difficult.

I read a really clever technique for setting action height which could also be used for checking you neck before making it permanent.

This guy ran a piece of dental floss from the center tuner, thru the nut to the bridge then checked his action action height. The same approach could be used to check your neck to box fit. It is a lot easier than attaching and winding a string. You can pull the dental floss relatively taunt without breaking and it easy to remove.

With the dental floss attached, you can eyeball/measure the string to neck/box fit. If the neck is off a bit, a shim under the top or bottom of the portion of the neck under the box will make slight angle adjustments. Once satisfied, you can attach the neck to the box permanently if you wish.

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Permalink Reply by Westsailor . on June 9, 2015 at 4:09am

Dental floss... a great idea. I was not looking forward to 'fighting' steel strings, not to mention having to wind/unwind them.

Dunno why it didn't dawn on me to simply use 'string' instead of actual guitar strings (Doh! slaps forehead).

Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by Joe Caruso on June 10, 2015 at 5:14am

Dental floss - great idea. Thanks. Also useful when working out the depth of the nut slots.

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Permalink Reply by Marcus Darwell on June 9, 2015 at 4:34am

If your fretboard is 1/4 above the box the the issue is easy to resolve with nut/saddle fettling and if your neck is nice and straight string buzz on the frets shouldnt be a hassle. I've only had to add neck relief for bolt-on necks where the fretboard is almost flush with the box....cedar shims from Rona do the trick......have also used shims made from gift cards....