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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on August 4, 2014 at 12:39am

I like putting a block on the bottom of the box [ inside ] and attaching the neck to that....butting the neck close to the cone. I put a thin wedge under the end to get a downward pitch on the neck that way I can dial in the action a lot better off the saddle. It`s a lot easier to do the adjusting off the saddle then the nut.  But I`m sure there`s others who do it different.

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Permalink Reply by Rob Bennett on August 4, 2014 at 3:50am

Thanks for the diagram..I was thinking similar...Im going to have a good fathom on this later

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Permalink Reply by Skeesix on August 4, 2014 at 6:32am

That design is going to be weak, because end-grain joints are weak. A stronger design would be two overlapping boards, which overlap by at least 3". (see attached pic) This is similar to what I do if the CBG has a deep pickup.

The Eric Davenport method also looks strong. You might have to use that design if the box is not as deep as what you're showing in your diagram.

Attachments:

• ResonatorNeckDesign_2.jpg, 18 KB

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Permalink Reply by Rob Bennett on August 4, 2014 at 6:49am

Thats what I plan on doing...thanks for diagram as well...I think the Eric Davenport has too much wood in its construction and stops the box being a sound box...the cigarbox is fitted to a through neck..this is what I consider the strongest...no strain on the box...well Ill get back with cut components later!!!

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Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on August 4, 2014 at 4:03am

Here's a vid showing how Eric Davenport built my steampunk reso:

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/bad-finger-steampunk-contest-en...

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on August 4, 2014 at 4:51am

Rob...if you watch the vid by Eric [ he used on of my rod biscuits ]you can see how my rod biscuit comes out the hole in the cone

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Permalink Reply by Rob Bennett on August 4, 2014 at 5:00am

Thanks cheers for replys...Im doing a lot of calculating!!!

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