As a novice builder, I was advised that the bridge should be one third the way up the box. However, I'm seeing more and more beautiful looking (and sounding) cbg's on here where the bridge is amost touching the very back of the box. Can someone please explain the relevance of the bridge position in relation to the box.

I do have some understanding of how it fits with scale length but there are some great builders on here who clearly have, as part of their 'standard design,' a bridge set much further back.

...and before anybody says it...yes, I know...no rules :-)

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Yes. But don't try that with a fretted guitar :-) - your bridge position is determined in advance if you use frets.

No rules... just kidding. It's all about tone and volume, as far as I understand. If the energy of the strings is being passed through the bridge to vibrate the soundboard, the more central the bridge, in theory, the more efficiently the energy is being transferred. I picture the vibration from the string through the bridge radiating outwards, so if the bridge is closer to one end, you might lose some of that energy.

Have a look at this - it shows some of the ways a classical guitar soundboard vibrates at certain frequencies. http://www.designofaclassicalguitar.com/acoustic-principles.php#fig...

I don't think it would matter as much for an electric build, though.

In my opinion there is more volume near the centre, but there is a spicier sound which emphasises more odd order harmonics at certain magic spots near the edge. I personally do a lot more frets (24 @600mm) clear of the box than most guys here in order to get in nearer (but not at) the centre..

I think a lot of guys think about this almost last, they want some fingerboard extending over the box because they think it looks cool (and perhaps it does) plus most guys go for full Fender scale length (also a mistake in my book) which also pushes it further back.. You commit to these kinda things then suddenly you need around 25cm of box before your bridge... And we all know how hard it can be to get the real big boxes...

Very wise words there. I have made the same mistake many times. I now use a 630mm scale length and measure up fro bridge position as one of the first jobs on the build.

true that

Ultimately I like a box 12"+.I have a couple Ditka throwbacks that are 15" that should workout nice.1 will be a 4string reso the other a 6string w/ electric guitar neck.

I learned the hardway about "sinking" your fretboard into the box.Thats not to say I will never do it again,but I like a bit of room behind the bridge.

I'm doing my first electric 6 string cgb and used, yes, a fender knock off guitar to scavenge from. So I have the 25 1/2 inch scale. I kept the length of the fingerboard out of the box by necessity. Going to finish it today as soon as I find the screws to attach the electrics.

Attachments:

Having the bridge near the tail end does give a better break angle so better sustain and attack,  the strings will therefore sit tighter on the bridge, moving the bridge near the centre will give a boxier sound but there will be less frets on any given scale length, horses for courses!  (-:

Um... Won't there be MORE frets for any given scale length..?


There are other ways to create pitch to the tailpiece. (Although you make a good point for sure if you don't plan to pitch your neck)

yes more or less depending on the position of the bridge,  quick reply in my coffee break!  .... but can anybody honestly say they regularly use higher frets than 12...? (do not answer if your name is Justin Johnson! )  ;-)

If they're available, I'll use em. 'S why I have a Strat. I find having 4 strings with 20-22 frets satisfies my high widdley, and 16-18 on a 3-string just means getting more creative on note choices.
May your high widdley be fully satisfied for many years to come Ron! ;-)

thats exactly right.  I use the top end of the neck a lot more on three string guitar cos u need more lateral movement when the range across the strings is only an octave

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