I like the idea of building a bridge with a piezo in it, and was wondering how others do it. What size "diameter" piezo would you use for that? How recessed should the gap for the piezo be, and is it glued in place with a flexible glue, or a hard glue, or would it be glued at all? Is it better to mount the piezo in the bridge, or in a recessed hole in the bottom? Would the bridge need to be glued to the box, or would the string tention hold it in place... so on and so forth......
This discussion is for anyone interested, or knowledgeable on the subject. I'm in the interested category. Feel free to post pictures, and links to your piezo/bridge's. I made this discussion becuase I wasn't able to find any other discussions on the topic, but mabe I didn't look hard enough. If so please post a link to the other discussion.
Thanks!
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I used 2 x 20mm piezos (unwired ones from CB Gitty) in this bridge.
Using a 20mm Forstner bit with the point ground off, I cut two recesses under the bridge. A small channel for the connecting wire was cut between the recesses with a Dremel bit.
The piezos were stuck into the recesses with a little spot of hot-glue.
I then wired the piezos in parallel, bringing just one pair of wires out from the bottom of the bridge. You don't need 4 wires unless you think it'll sound better in stereo, or you can't solder a couple of simple wires.
PLEASE don't heat piezos twice for every wire you solder on, despite what ''experts (hah) on some sites might tell you, this is bad workmanship and could result in you destroying the transducer. If your wire is tinned correctly, you don't need a huge blob of solder on the piezo ceramic to hold it on.
Once the wires were soldered on, I tested the connections by plugging it into an amp, then filled the rest of the recesses with epoxy (you could use more hot-glue).
For the saddle, I used a piece of 6mm brass rod, with a flat ground on it. Once I was happy with the intonation, I put a couple of drops of superglue under the brass rod to stop it moving about. (I believe Diane also uses the half-round saddle method, it works well and saves having to cut a round channel in the top of your bridge).
Well obviously I would file slots in the brass rod to maintain string spacing ... I guess it all depends how 'DIY' you want it to look. I know a lot of people use a bolt, and I'm sure it works reasonably well, but I use brass/bone/steel/whatever purely because it DOESN'T look like a bolt . :-))A 6mm bolt with the head cut off and filed flat on one side works well too - especially if your string anchors in tailpiece don't line up with your neck string spacing exactly. You do the same for a nut and you've got a really easy way of changing your spacings whenever you want.
Glenn Reither said:Well obviously I would file slots in the brass rod to maintain string spacing ... I guess it all depends how 'DIY' you want it to look. I know a lot of people use a bolt, and I'm sure it works reasonably well, but I use brass/bone/steel/whatever purely because it DOESN'T look like a bolt . :-))A 6mm bolt with the head cut off and filed flat on one side works well too - especially if your string anchors in tailpiece don't line up with your neck string spacing exactly. You do the same for a nut and you've got a really easy way of changing your spacings whenever you want.
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