If I am picturing what you describe acurately, I think it would work fine.
Using a square as a guide as shown in the back porch mojo video and seen elsewhere is a functional solution for the occasional or one off fret sawing operation, with care and a good eye you can get fine results that way. but if you do it more often, and want to do it with more speed and consistency, a miter box arrangement is a good step up.
There are several possible variations, although if one was contemplating doing this regularly, the Stew-mac box and indexing rig as presented in their how-to videos is probably a good way to go. I think they have, or Luthiers mercantile has a less elaborate miter box set-up that at a bit more reasonable cost for the occasional user. Building your own jig is a reasonable option as well, if well thought out it could be a rival to any of the above options.
Heres one possible variation for DIY'rs. How about a basic home made or basic miter box as you describe, and use the pre-sawn fingerboard as a guide similar to your description, but instead two-face tape it to the bottom of the fingerboard you want to saw and rig your miter box with a small steel pin in its base that is .023" in diam. where it protrudes and engages and indexes the slots of the pre-sawn fingerboard, which is face down in the miter?
Is my description making sense? (Wish I had a picture handy.)
Thats an interesting jig you have built. I assume by your description the fingerboards are attatched together by the aluminum bracket and can slide together?
It also appears that you have the miter slot wide enough to allow the depth guide to still be used.
Well it was just an idea off the top of my head. I don't want to continue buying preslotted FB
from S-M as the shipping and customs clearance costs for a single FB gets pretty expensive.
So I thought. since I'm going to build at least 2 of these 6 string CBGs, I might as well build an
cheap (zero dollars) mitre box. I have to use a machinest square to ensure that both FB are
at the correct location when the fret saw is actually sitting inside the preslotted fret.
Of course, I have to expand the box to 26 inches in length to accomodate cutting the 20th
fret with this "jury rig" setup.
Heres some thoughts on possible design improvements (constructive critisism, and not to imply what you have made wont work fine.)
Constructive critism improves designs, so go right ahead. As I mentioned, Mark,
this mitre box cost me nothing to make ,so I can scrap it and go onto something else.
It's an interesting woodwork project,that came off the top of my head,
while I was brainstorming my old brain for a cost effective solution.
First, you might consider not using the depth guage that attaches to the saw and instead keep the miter slot narrow (kerf width) for better control, and instead build the depth control into the miter box. Study this miter box for ideas.
Well, I kinda like the idea of having the depth guage attached, so that the fret slot depth
is preset automatically...but if you think it's something that should be used at the very last
part of the slot cutting operation to set the actual depth on a precut NEW FB slot,
I can take it off and go with metal (aluminum) guides that will make it fairly tight
against the blade.
Another possible improvement would be to add a cam clamp so you could move the finger board ahead to the next slot and secure it with one hand with the flip of a lever. Here is some clamp examples, but there are many simple and inexpensive ways you could do this.
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