Where I live in Illinois, the best hardwood I can find in 1x2 size is poplar. I'd rather have oak because I want to mount telecaster pickups and I need the strength I can buy a 6 foot section of oak that's 1 inch thick but 7 inches wide.
In a conversation with my Ace Hardware guy, I was told that ripping the wider board down to neck size would make it vulnerable to warping and/or twisting. That scared me out of the idea. What do you guys think about this? Can I rip an oak board down to 1 1/2 wide and have it stay stable or not.
I don't know if the wood was air dried or kiln dried if that makes a difference.
Thanks for any help,
Fred
Tags:
Tim Gale said:
In the "free plans" section, there are some old plans from Popular Mechanics (I think) that describe how to make a violin, guitar and mandolin. They all use bolt on necks. I made a mandlin with a bolt on neck in the pics below.
The bolt through the bottom allows me to counteract the tension the strings create while still allowing the box to be opened. You could glue the box shut and it would probably do the same. I am currently building a resonator cbg that I have a bolt on neck similar to this. The box is glued shut, so I did not put the bolt in. I do not have it strung up right now because I am working on the pickup setup. When I did have it strung up, it held up to the tension very well. If you don't use the tension bolt, I would dfinitely make sure all the joints on the box are glued very well. Maybe even glue extra pieces of wood in the corners to add strength as well as cross braces in the top. I have some pics on my page of a guitar I built where I put a square, steel tube inside the box then glued a threaded rod into the neck. This threaded rod passed through the tube where I was able to put a nut on it and tighten it for tension. Worked great, but I think I might just stick to the design above. Hope this helps
Tim
Fred Railsback said:Tim,
I am very new to CBG's. The only construction design I know is through the body. It's alot to ask, but do you have any pictures of the methods you are talking about?
Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)
Chris,
The threaded rod in the mandolin is adjustable. I countersunk the nut on the outside of the box so that it can't be seen. Works very well.
Chris Thomas said:
Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)
Tim Gale said:In the "free plans" section, there are some old plans from Popular Mechanics (I think) that describe how to make a violin, guitar and mandolin. They all use bolt on necks. I made a mandlin with a bolt on neck in the pics below.
The bolt through the bottom allows me to counteract the tension the strings create while still allowing the box to be opened. You could glue the box shut and it would probably do the same. I am currently building a resonator cbg that I have a bolt on neck similar to this. The box is glued shut, so I did not put the bolt in. I do not have it strung up right now because I am working on the pickup setup. When I did have it strung up, it held up to the tension very well. If you don't use the tension bolt, I would dfinitely make sure all the joints on the box are glued very well. Maybe even glue extra pieces of wood in the corners to add strength as well as cross braces in the top. I have some pics on my page of a guitar I built where I put a square, steel tube inside the box then glued a threaded rod into the neck. This threaded rod passed through the tube where I was able to put a nut on it and tighten it for tension. Worked great, but I think I might just stick to the design above. Hope this helps
Tim
Fred Railsback said:Tim,
I am very new to CBG's. The only construction design I know is through the body. It's alot to ask, but do you have any pictures of the methods you are talking about?
Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)
Chris, I'm going to use Tims design on my next project which will be a resonator with a pretty big box.
I don't have a planer (sp?) or a jointer, or a belt sander. I do have an old Sears cast iron 10" table saw, a router and a dremel with some good cutters. I made a router table out of a 2 ft. x 2 ft. piece of plywood and a garbage can.
My lumber problem was solved by two Menards stores and their good hardwood selections. So right now I'm just waiting for the next warm front to move in so I can work in the garage.
Me too mate, weather here has turned cold. Do you have an old hand plane of any kind, slow hard work but it's what the old masters used, I still use a cabinet scraper for detailed work, can't be beaten. Let me know how you get on mate. All the best, Chris. :)
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