Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by TN Twang on May 12, 2016 at 11:07am

I'm still tinkering with finding a good design, but the one I made and am trying to play has the can bolted on with a wing nut so I can make fine-tuning adjustments of the can. This is roughly equivalent to tweaking the bridge saddle. (Hey, I didn't say I had it all figured out yet.)

Permalink Reply by TN Twang on May 13, 2016 at 11:14am

So far, so good. Just a working prototype I made to try to learn to play.

I put the open end of the can pointed away from the headstock so the entire sounding length of the string is exposed. That makes it easier to pluck near the "bridge" and easier to see where the "bridge" is in relation to the frets. But it does make the can label read upside down, and some don't like the look.

The real trick is to convince the wife to open cans upside down.

Permalink Reply by JL on May 17, 2016 at 1:31am

with a hair dryer you can soften the glue, remove the label, and put it on other-way-around while the glue is still warm.

Permalink Reply by TN Twang on May 17, 2016 at 3:28am

Thanks. So obvious when you think about it...

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on May 19, 2016 at 3:02am

The smart assistance answer is measure accurately and build it right in the first place. A more helpful answer is reattach the can to correct the intonation. The cool thing about can Joe's is that once you get it right you can burn through multiple copies in no time.

Permalink Reply by John on May 31, 2016 at 9:57am

Good point

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on March 10, 2017 at 2:36am

rethought the question about intonation.  Assuming you have action about right... string it up BEFORE fretting.  Use slide to find the 12th fret (equivalent) ... back figure scale length and lay out frets accordingly.

that what I've done converting CBGs fretless to fretted.  why not this?.