Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Marty O on December 17, 2013 at 11:07pm

I use a mixture of 50% Linseed Oil and 50% Mineral Turps. I apply 2 or sometimes 3 coats to the neck and fretboard. I tend to use Tasmanian Oak (Tassie Oak) on most of my necks and this finish works well for me. It does smell for a couple of days then it is fine.

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on December 17, 2013 at 11:10pm

I use Danish oil personally. I put on a couple of coats, then rub in a 3rd with 320 grit sandpaper, then wipe off giving a polished feel and appearance. Then I lay in the frets, dress them etc and just go over a couple more times when oiling the rest of the neck.

Permalink Reply by Barsymes Cratchnee on December 18, 2013 at 12:50am

Oooh, so I should put the finish on before I put in the frets?  Always worried i would end up filling my fret slots with finish, although probably less of an issue using something like a danish oil or linseed oil.

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on December 18, 2013 at 11:14am

Yes. this was a good tip I picked up on this site. seems to help the frets sit in better and you don't get clumps of finish on either side of the fret wire.

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on December 20, 2013 at 7:12am

you can always "clean" the fret slot with your saw, by lightly passing the saw thru after you finish your board.  I've done it both ways with good results.

Permalink Reply by Tommy Phillips on December 18, 2013 at 3:40am

From a woodworking perspective, I would suggest something like an oil finish (boiled linseed, etc.)  Something that doesn't really form much of a film on top of the wood.  My thought is that this is like a tool handle, and you do not want the texture of the wood to be hidden under a film.

Also, in case you did not know, that beautiful purple will fade over time to a nice brown.  There seems to be some disagreement about whether the cause is regular light, UV light, or oxygen.  To the best of my knowledge, no one has found a way to keep the purple forever.

Permalink Reply by Bear Peterson on January 13, 2014 at 6:52pm

Interesting Tommy, I noticed that color change on a purple-heart hunting knife handle. When I made it around a quarter century ago it was vivid purple, now it looks a lot more like coca-bola than purple-heart. I had assumed oxygen to be the causes as I had only buffed it out with no other finish used, other than the light machine oil used to keep the carbon steel blade from rusting, and because that knife is stored in the dark, in a closed drawer at least 48 weeks out of every year, so I really didn't think light was the culprit, but If using a sealant doesn't stop the browning either I'm beginning to doubt that it is the oxygen too. Curiouser and curiouser.

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on January 13, 2014 at 6:55pm

So... somebody with some scraps needs to bury one in epoxy and set it on the shelf for a few years...  that might solve the oxygen debate...

Permalink Reply by Suspect Device on December 18, 2013 at 4:47am

I normally finish my maple fret boards with tung oil. On other hard wood fret boards I use either olive oil or lemon oil. DO NOT use the polyurethane!

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on December 18, 2013 at 5:58am

For most of my builds, and I've only made 1 fretboard with more to come:  I use either boiled linseed oil diluted with mineral spirits (like Marty O) or Danish oil (Like Richey K).  

 

From what I can tell, Danish oil IS boiled linseed oil with solvents and stain added  (compare the smell after 24 hours).   When applied properly, it shouldn't fill the fret slots.  Most of the oil soaks into the wood and then polymerizes into a durable finish that is part of the wood, sealing the pores and providing a breathable finish.

 

For unfinished CBG necks and wooden boxes, I use spray Deft.  Adds some great depth to the wood.

John

Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on December 18, 2013 at 6:24am

Putting linseed or other vegetable oils on a fingerboard isn't a great idea, as they never really dry properly and actually attract and trap dirt rather than protect the wood. Most dark hardwoods don't need anything other than a light application of something like lemon oil.  The stuff sold as 'lemon oil' for fingerboards is a very light mineral oil, with some solvent and a small proportion of essential lemon oil added...there's loads of debates about whether this stuff is actually any good for the wood, but it my experience it is definitely better than using linseed oil.

Oil finishes such as Danish oil and TruOil are, I understand,  based on linseed oil plus solvents with either a catalyst or an accelerant to speed up the drying and hardening process - the results you get with TruOil is nothing like that of using raw or boiled linseed oil.  I find Tru Oil way superior to Danish Oil, but the brand of Danish Oil I've been using may just be an unfortunate choice on my part, as I find it very slow drying.

If you feel you need to protect the a light coloured wood such as maple, steer well clear of polyurethane, it's generally way too soft. You're far better off spraying it with rattlecan acrylic or nitro clear lacquer.

Permalink Reply by Barsymes Cratchnee on December 18, 2013 at 11:46am

Wow,

Thanks all.  As always some great advice from some real professionals.  Fascinating about the purple heart, Tommy, I've never heard this before.  I've done a lot of woodworking, but have never used it or seen anyone talk about it.  Looking forward to seeing how this wood evolves over time.

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