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Nobody here talks much about neck angles, it is ignored because of the "home made" idea of slapping things together. Neck angles play a very important part for high brigdges. Check this link out.
http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/NeckAngle.JPG
Tres,
Bridge height is a function of: 1) initial height of fretboard where it joins the box , 2) neck angle , 3) nut height and 4) desired action. Increase any of these and the bridge height required increases..... Although many/most use neck thru construction, don't assume a "0" degree neck angle. I have seen badly warped necks that mimiced 3-4 degrees neck angle... The more sophositicated the build (I'm thinking about bolt on necks such as reso's) you have to consider neck angle. A 3/4 high bridge on a neck thru design would probably be useless, unless you would intentionally building a Dobro... lol....
The issue of bridge placement is really a function of sound production (volume and quality) Toward the middle of the box will get the most volume accoustically and will get a more "banjo-y" sound. Up to 3/4 toward the tail will reduce the volume a little, but will get a more guitarish sound. Beyond that (I've seen CBGs with the bridge on the tailpiece, not even on the box) you start to loose a lot of volume. Now, if you're amping it, not problem, you just treat it like a solid body guitar and go on. But if you want a "guitar sounding" CBG and want decent volume, I would suggest staying between 2.3s and 3.4 of the way toward the tail end of the box.
hope that helps...
Nobody here talks much about neck angles, it is ignored because of the "home made" idea of slapping things together. Neck angles play a very important part for high brigdges. Check this link out.
http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/NeckAngle.JPG
"They're not talking about it 'cus no ones asking"
Sam, no one starting out here knows anything about guitar building. Thats another site altogether. A through neck can be shaved down on the top side inside the box to tip the neck downward. This will give him what he wants.
[IMG]http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l133/1eyecrooked/neckthrough.jpg[/IMG]
I did a lot of research on neck angle before I started building my mandola; most all the references said 5% for an instrument of this type. I really took pains measuring and really sweated making that cut!
Worked well, though; I ended up with a bridge height of about 3/4" and a nice, loud, ringing instrument.
Neck Angles |
||||||||||
Inches |
1/32 inch |
|||||||||
Scale Length |
24.5 |
784 |
||||||||
Box Length |
9 |
288 |
||||||||
Bridge from Top |
6.5 |
208 |
||||||||
Fingerboard Length |
18 |
576 |
||||||||
Neck Depth |
0.75 |
24 |
||||||||
Fingerboard Depth |
0.25 |
8 |
||||||||
Bridge Height |
0.75 |
24 |
||||||||
Nut Height |
0.13 |
4 |
||||||||
Height |
at bridge |
Extra Action |
||||||||
Angle (degrees) |
Tail Thinning |
Neck |
Fingerboard |
Relief @ nut |
@ bridge |
@ FB tip |
@ octave |
|||
0 |
0 |
0 |
8 |
0 |
12 |
8.82 |
6 |
|||
0.5 |
2.51 |
1.82 |
9.82 |
5.03 |
10.18 |
7.48 |
5.09 |
|||
1 |
5.03 |
3.63 |
11.63 |
10.05 |
8.37 |
6.15 |
4.18 |
|||
1.5 |
7.54 |
5.44 |
13.44 |
15.08 |
6.56 |
4.82 |
3.28 |
|||
2 |
10.06 |
7.26 |
15.26 |
20.1 |
4.74 |
3.48 |
2.37 |
|||
2.5 |
12.57 |
9.07 |
17.07 |
25.12 |
2.93 |
2.15 |
1.46 |
|||
Columns (all lengths in 1/32”) |
||||||||||
Tail thinning |
How much thinner will the neck be at the “bottom” of the box? |
|||||||||
Neck @ bridge |
How high would the “notional” neck be if extended the bridge? |
|||||||||
FB @ bridge |
How high would the “notional” fingerboard be if extended to the bridge? |
|||||||||
Relief @ nut |
How much relief is generated at the nut? |
|||||||||
Action @ bridge |
How much extra action is present at the bridge? |
|||||||||
Action @ FB tip |
How much extra action is present at the top of the box / end of the fingerboard? |
|||||||||
Action @ octave |
How much extra action is present at the octave point? |
Thanks for the feedback. I've done a little calculating myself...
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