Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by nailtown slim on November 22, 2015 at 8:51pm

If it plays as well as it looks, you've got a winner there mate! Have a good day!

Permalink Reply by Robert Killen on November 23, 2015 at 5:34am

Thanks,Slim!

Permalink Reply by QGolden on November 23, 2015 at 12:49am

Nice job!
I like the tuner location, I have been considering that on a Dulcimer build. Being right handed and a Dulcimer being a lap instrument, it makes sense. Question, how did you do the tapered fretboard? Is the string height consistent along the length of the fretboard? Consistent string height is something I struggle with.

Permalink Reply by Robert Killen on November 23, 2015 at 5:43am

Thanks. As Wayfinder guessed I used my table saw for the taper. I did the math on a 1-1/2 degree triangle (see, you CAN use that math after HS) and shimmed up a jig. It went better than I expected.

For string height I was aiming for 0.5mm at the first fret and 4mm at the 17th fret. That's only because that's what I keep coming across in classical guitar discussions. My first fret is just under 1mm and I'm at 3-4mm at the 17th. I have no buzz and light action.

I work hard to get my fretboards flat (this one has a VERY slight backwards bow at the body end, which doesn't bother me). I bought an old broken, but sturdy level and taped sandpaper to it. I use this to finish the fretboard and the frets when necessary.

Permalink Reply by QGolden on November 23, 2015 at 7:42am

I thought you might have used a table saw.  I have done tapered cuts on the table saw to make pencil posts for bed head boards.  Also I have used that to make table legs.  You did a good job on that.  I had not thought of applying a taper cut to a fretboard, but it makes sense..   Thanks for sharing.

Permalink Reply by Robert Killen on November 23, 2015 at 5:44am

Yes, I did. Thanks!

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 24, 2015 at 8:21am

Wow, I haven't seen a tapered fretboard before. Looks great.

Permalink Reply by Anthony Collins on November 24, 2015 at 9:10pm

Yes neat solution. I'm just planning my first build and hadn't given enough thought to string geometry. I've an adjustable hard tail bridge in the post but will I be able to get acceptable string heights by setting the fretboard above the level of the top of the box? Tapering is outside my available skillset/toolset.

Permalink Reply by Robert Killen on November 24, 2015 at 10:18pm

I'm new at this as well. And I'm probably over-thinking it. But from what I've picked up, the critical geometry is the break angle over the bridge. It's this element that puts downward pressure on the soundboard.

Supposedly there's a sweet spot. Too little and strings move around on the bridge and volume is light. (I've experienced this one.) Or too much and the soundboard isn't free to resonate, or worse it just implodes.

I would think that you'll be good to go, so long as you have enough height to get a nice angle over the bridge. Mine is about 15 degrees. This falls right in line with some of the classical instrument discussions I've come across.

Have fun!

Permalink Reply by Anthony Collins on November 25, 2015 at 12:19am

O God, more to agonise over :-).  I was thinking more about string height over frets. My first will have a hard tail bridge so no break angle to worry about and mainly electric so any natural acoustics will be an accident/bonus. But thinking about a resonator down the line...

Permalink Reply by Robert Killen on November 25, 2015 at 5:32am

Got it. I haven't used a hard tail yet. When you get it finished send us pics. I'd love to see it!

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 25, 2015 at 8:45pm

Using a long straight edge(yard stick will work) can help with determining string height at the nut and bridge.

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