I have been doing this sort of thing with walking sticks and staffs for long time. I have been toying around with the idea of doing stuff like this on the backs of CBG's. I am doing 3 license plate guitars and since they will have 1/4" birch plywood back. I am considering doing something on the back. I can't draw a lick. I lightly glue (using Elmers' & spit) paper with what I want on it. Let it dry overnight and burn thru outline.It is like a paint by numbers kit.You have to play with the opacity of the paint to not cover burn lines. Has anybody tried this kind of stuff? I know there are no rules, but I don't want to do it on front of CBG, but I think back of license plate guitars would be O.K.
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I am thinning acrylics, they are water base but not really water colors. I like what you are doing to the box but, it looks to be a homemade box. I am not knocking what you are doing. Don't get me wrong but ona a cigar box I want the labels, tax stamps and and that sort of stuff. I clear coat over the top of them to help preserve them. It is kind of a different thing. Many cigar boxes have some kind of topcoat oon them that doesn't want to burn without bubbling and charring where you don't want it. I do love what you are doing and will plan something in the future.
You are correct that is box I made and I probably wouldn't do it to an actual cigar box. I wouldn't want to mangle the beauty of the classic cigar box. As you, I also like all the stamps and stickers. Just showing an idea if you ever thought of doing your own box to put the personal touch on the front. This one was for a personalized going away gift. I do like you're idea of decorating the necks though.
Bama Hound,
That's some pretty stuff. On non-license plate builds, think about building on the bottom of the box and then you can let your artistic child play. There's also the advantage of access to the inside without taking strings off. Some of my most favorite CBGs have been folk art git's built on the bottom.
the best,
Wichita Sam
Sam,I been working on some Corvette wheel cover gits. The backs are made a Photoshop composite of period correct gas pumps and "58 Corvettes in front of. Been working on them 21/2 mos. I am pretty close to the end. Headstock is Chevy Bowtie icon.
When I sent the reply< I didn't really show the pyrography before the paint. Also the necks are further along than the rough. They are ready for fretting.
This stuff is great. What are you guys using to burn? A soldering iron?
http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/NEW-BURNMASTER-HAWK-PEN-10-TIPS-SE...
I am not using this model. Mine is 30 yo, but these tips fit in my Excalibur (what I got) but I don't think they carry that main unit any more. This is when you want to start getting serious with pyrography. After all,you can use a nail, held by needle nose pliers and a propane torch.This is a starter kit. I haven't done any price checking on this item. It may be gotten cheaper elsewhere,but this answers your question. The main advantage to this type of thing is the ability to maintain the fairly consistent temp. at the tip. (the variant is your working speed) You can get tips with shapes and sizes just to burn scales, so you can do snakes and fish.,or sets with tips more fitting to doing feathers. This is a good general purpose way to go. I can't draw a lick. I use Photoshop to resize images, remove unwanted background and combine components. I then lightly glue image to where I want it, then burn through the necessary lines,then use a wide tip to remove the stuck paper from my piece. My lack of drawing talent is compensated by using woodburning as a crutch. This is what works for me, your milage may vary based on speed and driving conditions (;-D)
All I've done so far is burn fret lines/markers on a slider and fret marks on the edge of a couple of other builds. Thinking about doing some small logo-like stuff on headstocks.
Good work you're doing there. That's similar to how I lay out frets on fretted builds...I print off a scale pattern (I use fret2d), stick it on with a little spray adhesive, then cut through the lines with the saw and peel off the scrap. No measuring which eliminates me screwing something up. Usually. I did enter the wrong scale length once and had to move the bridge a bit. lol
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