Replies

  • Goran, have you considered making the nut and the bridge using threaded rod or small bolts? With the threaded rod, you can place the strings anywhere you want, and change them at will-this will leave you plenty of options to experiment with string placement.

    One of my clients currently has one of my Tennis racquet builds-and his wife already objects to adding anymore to his collection, alas-so I used a slightly used and modified Mandolin tailpiece, and threaded rod for both Nut and Bridge. Due to the flexibility of this arrangement my client was able to string and play the build as:

    4-string Mandola
    8-string four course Jumbo Mandolin
    3-string Open Chord Guitar
    3-string with a one Octave drop Drone string
    4-string Tenor Banjo
    4-string Tenor Ukulele

    The guy's pretty talented-he's been playing a different configuration every week at the local watering hole. He still wants another build or two so he can avoid the 'string-stretch' intervals(with wider fretboard for 6 and 8 strings) but can't bear to winnow his collection down to make room...oh well, that's between him and his wife, right? :)

    Okay, useless rambling aside-I seriously recommend threaded rod. Galvanized rod or bolt works fine, but these days I am partial to brass both for looks and a minute difference in tone...

    Looking forward to seeing your daughter's guitar.
  • If you are looking for fret spacing in MM, if you have a Mac, try fretfind2d, lets you layout and print a template with no measuring at all.

    • Can i still have my neck in 50 mm. and only change the space between the strings? Thank you for your guidens. 

      / Göran

    • Yes, just put one in the center and space the others equally on either side of it. 

    • I think 50mm is about 2". If she has small hands that may be a bit wide for 3 strings, you could always shift the spacing toward the edge or use the same spacing you have on the other guitar and just don't use the 4th string. You could even leave room on the head to add another tuner in case she wanted to convert it to a 4 stringer later. 1/2" or about 12-13mm is concidered a good distance between the strings.

    • Most of my necks are 1.75" or 44.45mm wide with strings 1/2" or 12-13mm apart for 3 stringers.

  • Just do another one like the first one but only use 3 strings. Looks like you did a fine job on it.

  • Oh, I almost forgot-

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/easy-to-build-cigar-box-...

    Uncle Crow's measurements and calculations are in Millimeters- the formula is X=nut, 1st Fret= 0.9439 of X, then keep mulitplying by 0.9439 for each fret. The videos make it much clearer!
  • Judging by that first build you've got the know-how already-if that build sounds as good as it looks I bet it sounds fantastic!

    I'm with Brendan though-what exactly do you think you need on the upcoming 3 string that you haven't already done on the four string? If you're just exploring your options the Nation has blueprints and plans galore:

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/page/free-plans

    If you need info on tuning a three string just mosey on down to this:

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/a-cigar-box-guitar-builders

    If you're talking about playing with three strings rather than four we have this:

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/page/how-to-play-cbg

    Brendan's already got the fret calculations covered-so if we've missed anything, just let us know.

    Oh, welcome to Cigar Box Nation BTW. I regret to inform you that some of us catch the addiction as soon as the first build, so it may already be to late to stop... :D
  • Are you looking for scale length? Fret positions? stew macs lets you choose inches or mm on its fret calculator.

    http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

    Also, looks like you made a Cigar Box Guitar already, not sure what a GBS is.

    Fo me, i just copy all the measurements off a commercially made guitar rather than using any ruler at all.

    —B

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