Hey CBG-ers.  I am attempting my first scarf joint, and had a few questions. 

 

When finishing your scarf joint (all glued together), how much of a seam can you still see, none at all, easily see or just a little. 

 

If you do have a seam after finishing the gluing, what are you methods for making the seam not so apparent?  Will painting or staining take care of it?

 

I can`t get my hands on any good gorilla glue here in Japan.  BUT I think what I am using is pretty strong.  Do many of you who DO NOT use gorilla glue have good results with your joints?

 

I am following the tutorial in the HOW TO SECTION of the website.  Are there any other tutorials that any of you follow that might have some added insite?

 

Am I thinking too much on this, or should I just go with it?

 

Thanks for your time.  And happy building to all of you.

 

Douglas

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I use 4 clamps, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom of the joint forming a "T". The tape is at the back of the top of the joint and I clamp this end first, one side and then the next forming the top of the "T". Then I clamp the bottom of the joint on both sides.

I have a tweaked jointer plane to cut down the headstock and level the face of the neck to prep for the fingerboard but have also used a well tuned and sharp #6 stanley hand plane.

Chester Winowiecki said:
Ron,
Great idea! I've build boxes and other shapes with the masking tape hinges you describe and it worked really well. And your placement of the clamps is inspired! Do you place the one nearest the joint first (the upright one)?
A CBGer with a lot of experience created a video in which he used a block plane to take a rough cut scarf joint and make it perfect. I think he may have been from this site.

If you can't get a good cut that might be something to try.
Mr Otis, I did your method of mixing saw dust in with the glue (used wood glue and very fine dust). Worked like a charm.

Thanks,
Douglas

otis said:
if your concerned to cover the seam if you have one just apply a mix of super glue and sawdust to it from where you sand the neck and it will cover the seam and you can sand it to look seamless. ive done this on one or two that i did for customers. on my own i don't usually worry about it. good luck.
Igfyou visit the Smokehouse Guitars group page you will get all the info you need for scarf joints
Douglas,

fix the curve in your neck before adding the fretboard..... I've found that gluing sandpaper on a flat table top creats a nice way to plane stuff with having to work with a plane. 60 grit to remove quantities of wood, 120 to "finish" before glue up (also use to prep the fretboard after glue up for level) and finally some 400 grit to dress installed frets for level.

build/learn/build some more.

save the gorilla glue for furniture repair... it expands on cure and will seperate parts causing mis-alignment. OK for worn furnature joints... not much else...

the best,

Wichita Sam


Douglas Eric Marsalis said:
Thanks everyone. I have tried two scarf joints so far. It is not as easy as it looks.

One problem, because I do not have a table saw, I had to go to the hardware store to get my cuts. I don't think the guy did too good of a job.

I am trying my best to get my pieces together with NO seam, but it is just not happening this time around.

Another problem is that my head stock end is a milli or two higher than the neck end, so it will make problems for when I glue down my fret board. I mat have to have the fret board area plained again at the hardware shop. OR just try to file that area down. Any ideas?

God I wish I had the proper tools (table saw). Life would be so much easier.

Thanks again for all of your comments.

Douglas
"save the gorilla glue for furniture repair... it expands on cure and will seperate parts causing mis-alignment. OK for worn furnature joints... not much else..."

It does a pretty good job keeping the soles of my old wading boots attached...
some you dont see and some you do, depends on the grain. Titebond red lable, great stuff. A very sharp fine tooth blade.
Attachments:
Rodney, nice work. On that 4 string, did you laminate three pieces for the neck?
If you are waiting for the hardware fairy to visit with your new table saw, you can make dogleg necks in the meanwhile, or can mount tuners sideways like a slotted peghead. It is WAAY easier with a proper saw, meanwhile work with what you have. IMHO!

Douglas Eric Marsalis said:
Thanks everyone. I have tried two scarf joints so far. It is not as easy as it looks.

One problem, because I do not have a table saw, I had to go to the hardware store to get my cuts. I don't think the guy did too good of a job.

I am trying my best to get my pieces together with NO seam, but it is just not happening this time around.

Another problem is that my head stock end is a milli or two higher than the neck end, so it will make problems for when I glue down my fret board. I mat have to have the fret board area plained again at the hardware shop. OR just try to file that area down. Any ideas?

God I wish I had the proper tools (table saw). Life would be so much easier.

Thanks again for all of your comments.

Douglas
Diane, what's a "dogleg neck"?
Craig Cox said:
Diane, what's a "dogleg neck"?

headstock with a very steep angle. Most are 7-10 degrees. Lutes and such have a much more angled headstock.

Matt
I'd say she's more likely to mean this
a bit of chopped off neck glued up underneath, but square...

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