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Hmm. I don't use that particular brand but there's lots of info on their website:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-finishing-101/staining-interior-wood/
I use Rustins, which specifically says it doesn't raise the grain.
you could always try letting the stain dry, then finish, then sand down with 600grit, and wipe away the bits. This is what I always do after finishing with Danish oil.
Hi Jon,
Some stains and finishes (especially those that are "water based") cause the grain to be "raised". This usually happens only on the first coat. So, after the first coat dries, I always sand it with 000 steel wool (available at your local hardware store in the sand paper section). What I use is cooking oil to "stain" the wood in its natural color, and then apply several coats of a so called "water based" polyurethane. As I now understand it, what I have isn't really polyurethane, but is a suitable substitute and does not use an oil base, so it doesn't smell up the place as much as real polyurethane would. I work in the spare bedroom/office at my desk and my wife forbids smelly finishes in the flat.
-Rand.
Minwax is very good stain, most stains will raise the grain a bit, water based stains will tend to do it more. After the stain dries over night you can burnish it with a heavy cloth like denim and that will slick it down some. After that apply the first coat of sealer/finish and sand with 220 grit or finer sandpaper after it is fully dry. Apply the second coat and use 000 or 0000 steel wool after it dries if you plan on applying a third coat. Like Rand said also, you can use the 000 steel wool to sand/smooth the first coat of sealer. Always allow your stain to fully dry, usually over night is best, otherwise the finish coat will bite into the stain and it will muddy up your finish job. Be sure to get all the sanding dust and steel wool off before you apply the finish, sometimes those little steel wool "fibers" are hard to see.
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