How accurate does fret distance need to be? I don't have the tools to go beyond mm accuracy.

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it kinda depends on how well you want it to inotate.
your tolerances need to be much higher than 1 mm.
If you don't get them accurate you won't be able to play chords correctly.
If you are using slide it is not quite so important.
Try to get it correct then you will have the choice.
Just my two cents here...I too have only used mm accuracy. However, you can estimate between those mm also. Make sure you always measure from the nut to minimize compounding any errors. Using that method, I've only had one instance where things were off and that's because when I cut for my nut, it slid back a tiny bit. If you're accurate I don't think you'll have any problems.
Hi,
I have yet to try this but a friend who makes his own guitars and ukes swears by the fret calculator freeware
from http://www.brothersoft.com/fret-calculator-download-44473.html
If you download the freeware program and run it you simply put in your scale length and number of frets - it shows a table of the fret positions from the nut as a table but when you print it out (top left "file" menu )it does it as a set of lines the correct distance from the nut. My friend then spray mounts onto the fingerboard ,with a square uses a Stanley knife to mark the slots and then cuts the fret slots.
Hope this is of interest.
Regards,
David
David - that is EXACTLY what I need. I was using stewmac's calculator and getting like 23.528686mm or some other crazy numbers for locations. I'm pretty good with eyeballing 1/4 1/5 3/4 but I wasn't sure how important exact precision is.


Thanks for the replies everyone!
Do a search on this site for Wfret, I know Ted C has posted it a few dozen times. It is, by far, one of the easiest ways to print off fret templates. It has all the standard scales or you can input the length and number of frets. Print template, tape to neck, mark, cut...easy.
Accuracy is way important if you want your guitar to stand up to the scrutiny of a skilled musician. In my experience they have incredible ears and are able to detect the most imperceptible variations in pitch. These guys can instantly tell when a note is flat or sharp. From what I've done so far, accuracy to .5 millimeter has been sufficient and has pleased all musicians who have played my instruments.
In metric, it's easy to convert or round. For 23.528585 mm, you can round to 24 mm and you'll be good. For 23.528686 cm, convert to 235 mm and you're ready to rock. As long as you measure the position of each fret from the nut and not from fret to fret, any error will be negligible and will not amplify as you go up the scale.

Three Forks Guitars said:
David - that is EXACTLY what I need. I was using stewmac's calculator and getting like 23.528686mm or some other crazy numbers for locations. I'm pretty good with eyeballing 1/4 1/5 3/4 but I wasn't sure how important exact precision is.


Thanks for the replies everyone!
May aswell put my '2 cents' in too...

I use a regular steel ruler to measure out my frets. I too work to the nearest 0.5mm ie. If it says 64.1mm, I mark 64mm, if it says 64.62371mm, I go 64,5mm.

Bear in mind your pencil line is about 0.3mm thick!!! I agree with Josh - most folk playing CBGs are not going to be playing with 0.1mm each time they slide! (Cue angry responses from pro players lol) If they do, it is more a result of 'playing with their ears' than whether the frets are to within 0.137mm accurate!

Just make sure you measure each fret from the nut and you wont go far wrong :o)
Wfret. I use it exclusively. Love it.
This online fret calculator will generate a multi-page PDF which you can cut and tape together to form a fret ruler:

http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/
I'm glad our 2 cents are the same currency. I was beginning to think my 2 cents made no sense. Just to throw in my credentials for this method, I'm an instrumental music teacher that often judges festivals/competitions. A number of other music teachers have played my instruments and are impressed by the intonation (meaning there's nothing wrong with it. You know how music divas are...). I don't think that I possess any great ability to eyeball between mm marks but maybe I am just that incredible! That's unlikely. If I can do it, anyone can. After my one instance of my nut slot traveling backwards as I cut it, I've really liked doing a zero fret. I know that statement alone could start a new thread. It should also be noted that the longer the scale length, the less accurate the frets need to be. Have you ever tried to set up a mandolin? NOT the most fun thing in the world. (This is also why the soprano trombone is so much harder to play with good intonation than a tenor trombone) Along with the inaccurate of the pencil lines (unless you're using a scribe) you should also take into account the rigidity of your mitre box if you're using one. Mine sucks. Its fine for frets since they're shallow but any big cut makes me want to kill myself.

Roosterman said:
May aswell put my '2 cents' in too...

I use a regular steel ruler to measure out my frets. I too work to the nearest 0.5mm ie. If it says 64.1mm, I mark 64mm, if it says 64.62371mm, I go 64,5mm.

Bear in mind your pencil line is about 0.3mm thick!!! I agree with Josh - most folk playing CBGs are not going to be playing with 0.1mm each time they slide! (Cue angry responses from pro players lol) If they do, it is more a result of 'playing with their ears' than whether the frets are to within 0.137mm accurate!

Just make sure you measure each fret from the nut and you wont go far wrong :o)

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