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Cedar Box Build

A while back, a member posted a build that He did making the box out of Cedar roof shingles. The instrument had a great sound to it and made me want to build one for myself.

The shingles have a taper to them and would require planing and I don't have a planer. Also I would have to buy a bundle at 18 dollars. Cedar planks were available at the grocery store for grilling Fish. They were 2 boards 1/4" x 5" x 12" at 4 to 6 dollars a package.

Settled on a Western Cedar fence plank at Lowe's 5/8ths" x 5&1/2" x 60" for $2.55. This was just enough wood for the box and any braces needed, but would need to be dried more. Cut the pieces and dried them in the oven.

Made a frame for the box and the top and bottom panels. Since 5/8ths" is too thick for an effective acoustic, I layed the box frame on top of the panels and traced the inside barrier. I routed the back inside to 1/4" and glued a 1/4" brace along the seam and routed the top inside to 3/16th" and glued a 1/4" brace along the seam. I'll have to add a cross brace later for the bridge, but it will only contact the center brace and the box sides to maximize top vibration. The top is glued to the frame and the back is attached with 4 screws for now, may glue it later. The box was sanded to have a curved side profile. It has a 1&3/4" sound hole. I plan to attach the neck to the box side with screws and glue.

The neck and fretboard will be made of Red Oak. Going for 4 strings and 25" scale with bridge near center of sound board. I plan on using a Uke style bridge and nut. Plan on putting in 2 piezo, 1 on the low string side and 1 on the high string side wired to a blend pot.

Pics of what I have so far.

4 members like this

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 29, 2015 at 11:55am

I made the box to 3" x 7" x 9". The box is done till the neck gets attached. So I'll be moving on to the neck.

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 29, 2015 at 11:58am

My plan is to stain the neck and fretboard a light Walnut. I'm thinking a light Ebony stain for the box with Truoil over the whole thing.

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 29, 2015 at 12:18pm

Some of you may be wondering about the bracing for the top and back. Bracing is a necessary evil with acoustic guitars. You need bracing to keep the thin top/back from being damaged by string pressure at the bridge(downward force) and stress across the sound board(end to end force). But bracing tends to dampen vibration.

Most acoustics have the bracing running across the middle seam and usually 2 braces long ways across the top of the other braces. My idea is to lessen the dampening as much as possible by running the braces with the grain/seam. The back doesn't need a lot of bracing since it is thicker(1/4"), however the top will need more since it is thinner(3/32nds" which is thicker than most acoustics) and has the bridge pressure added. so the top will get a brace running from side to side and just touching the center brace. Hopefully this will be strong enough and have good vibration for the top. We shall find out anyway.

Permalink Reply by Ken Baker on December 3, 2015 at 10:49pm

There is a nice 50 Min. film on YouTube all about bracing acoustic guitars, the theory and application. I found it very informative on a subject I previously knew nothing.

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on December 4, 2015 at 11:26am

Thanks for that info, I'll give it a look.

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 29, 2015 at 12:24pm

I may be over thinking this. After all, it's only a 7" x 9" box and the sides/frame is 5/8ths" thick. This may have to carry over to a bigger build to prove/disprove. Or maybe that's my excuse to build another one. Hahahaha

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on November 29, 2015 at 1:06pm

Nice build and explanation of the process. I built a 4 string with a /cedar box, but I used a bird's eye Maple top and thin ply bottom. Mine is neck thru and as very good tone.

Permalink Reply by QGolden on November 29, 2015 at 3:47pm

Nice write up and idea. The wood looks pretty thick for an acoustic build, or are you going to 'lectrify it?

Quinn

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 29, 2015 at 8:18pm

Thanks guys.

Qgolden Yes it is thick, which is why I thinned it on the inside center with my router leaving the thick outer side to give stability. The outside of the box looks like center frame at 2" and 2 solid pieces on top/bottom giving a 2" deep cavity inside. But I cut into the top/bottom pieces on the inside with the router making the inside cavity 2 & 9/16ths" deep. Deeper cavity = louder acoustics. Most acoustic guitars have a top thickness in the neighborhood of 1/8th" and this is 3/16ths". And yes it will have pickups.

Permalink Reply by QGolden on December 4, 2015 at 3:00am

Thanks for the note back, makes sense.

Permalink Reply by Ken Baker on December 3, 2015 at 10:46pm

May I suggest you invest in a cheap electric planer? Mine cost me about £25 in UK, it works fine, the blade has lasted some years so far and it's reversible. I have made many window sills which get eaten away in the wet winters here in the West of England. You can dial any thickness of cut from 0 to 2 mm.(5/64" in American) You can also get a dead flat finish with a little care using a straight edge to check.

Permalink Reply by QGolden on December 4, 2015 at 3:05am

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-hp-12-inch-planer-with-dust...

Great thought, there is a 20% coupon available for this item right now. I have one of these and a Delta, this one works as well as the Delta on wood up to 10 inch max, it really likes wood up to 8 inch. 12 inch is the width, but not necessarily the realistic "working capacity". The Delta handles 12 inch width much better, but realistically peaks at 10 inch. Always add a couple of inches to your length to cut off the snipe at the end of the plane.