Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on October 6, 2015 at 5:47pm

Just like you have it... the strings are Thin, thick, thinner, thinnest... 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on October 7, 2015 at 3:17am

This won't answer your question directly, but I thought it was kewl:

http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/compensate.html

But think about this: normally, on most stringed instruments with fixed bridges, the saddle is angled. And normally, that angle is up and to the right, with reference to the largest, thickest string. So, looking at your pic above, I would say that the orientation needs to be flipped 180 degrees.

And if I'm wrong, it's a simple matter to de tune and flip it around. :-)

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 7, 2015 at 4:55am

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 7, 2015 at 4:56am

Thanks for the input fellas, since there seems to be opposing views, I've included an opposing view. I think so far I'm leaning to Ron's side on this.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on October 7, 2015 at 5:43am

Well, I got to thinking more about this, and I think the answer cold be dependent on tuning! If you use a reentrant tuning, then I could see John's view working.

Sorry, I may have to punch myself...

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 7, 2015 at 9:00am

So it IS a mystery! I believe I will be using re-entrant tuning, if that is "standard" concert uke tuning, and I believe it is where you have a small string on top, then the big, med, and small (very scientific!) ?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on October 7, 2015 at 3:38pm

While Holding the Uke... the string highest up should be at the left...in the original picture...  I think what I described was a lefty build... Sorry ... I AM WRONG

Leave the bone bridge, put the wood piece on the other side...

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 7, 2015 at 9:27am

Also, on this same subject, should the whole bridge saddle assembly also be compensated? ie 15" plus 1/16" or does that only apply to non compensated saddles? Wow, a floating bridge is so much easier!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 7, 2015 at 2:36pm

 I guess that would be 15" MINUS 1/16" ?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Clark Rowden on October 7, 2015 at 10:04pm

Stew-Mac has a calculator for figuring it out for guitar but, if you watch the video on the page linked below, Dan Erlewine has a neat "stone age" device that he clamps on to temporarily make the fixed bridge into a floating one so as to sort it all out...

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Bridges_and_Tailpiec...

I've been thinking about designing my own to work on CBGs/CBUs.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by JL on October 8, 2015 at 12:11am

Simple rule, thicker strings need more compensation (more away).

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on October 8, 2015 at 1:28am

Wow, thanks everyone. I sometimes make things more complicated than they have to be! JL, your answer makes perfect sense and the thing is, I know that already! What was confusing me is the "re-entrant" tuning thing where you have a thin sting on top  instead of the thickest string. 

Wayfinder, the saddle is the same height all the way across, only the angle of the peaks are different, but thanks for confirming what "Oily " said, flip it.       

So the SECOND photo I posted is the correct orientation and "Oily " was right all along!!

And Clark thanks for the link, that is handy!

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• Next ›
• Page