I've got a guitar built on an arturo fuente box, one with only one side papered (the top, now the back) and nice paper trim along all the edges. Any suggestions on what kind of finish would best seal the paper so that it can survive at least some abuse?

I've already made the guitar but don't mind taping off the neck and reso cone, finishing the neck with something else, etc.

Thanks!

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You could spray it with a few light coats of varnish or polyurethane, but you could also leave it alone. If it gets all dinged up, you can just make another one!!!
I wouldn't even bother coating the box. Doesn't add to.

Like Iggy says, if it gets torn up, build again.

-WY
Ha, I agree there, only it's not quite my say on this one - a gift from my girlfriend to a nephew-like-kid and she said to finish it. Then again, she doesn't like the way the paper got roughed up during construction, while I do.

Like I need an excuse to make another one! :) I'm already building it's replacement since I love the tone of the old lowe cone that went into it. I had to make one for me BEFORE I mailed this one off so somehow, ehem, I just can't quite complete the first ;)

Thanks
just rub a bit of pva glue in there mate, works great
I've used clear laquer to spray the paper boxes. It did not affect the paper at all and it protects it from water and keeps the paper from peeling up. hey just my 2 cents worth but it worked for me.
In that case Fitz, if you want a 'quick coat', I use Deft brand Clear Wood Finish in the aerosol can. I probably wouldn't use much tho. It does contain some really nasty solvents that might dissolve the ink on the paper. Test on the inside lid of the box first.

On that note, I use the same in the canned liquid form to do necks. Once I get the neck cut down and sanded, I will layer on with the liquid to about 6-10 thick coats (dry time of 4-6 hrs in between coats), sand down with 220 - 400 grit sandpaper until all the 'shine' is off and the surface is leveled down, then spray the sucker with 2-3 coats if the aerosol (drying in between). Makes a smooth as glass shine. I don't even need to buff it down.

-Wes
On a somewhat over the top build I did for my father, I put 3 coats of polyurethane over the entire box. I came out very nice in my opinion. It does cause the paper hinge to become too brittle to open/close more then a few times. Not an issue since I screwed it shut anyways.

MikeBoy: great build, I've gotta get around to trying inlays. Yup, that's the same box. In this case I want the box to be able open, but I can add hinges.

This has been really helpful. What I'm getting most is that I have options and should try them. Only a few have things to really worry about, like messing the ink up.
Thanks Fitzhugh. Don't be afraid to try anything - it's the whole point of these little buggers! Anyway, I think you're safe with either the spray on or brush on clears. I used plain 'ol brush on minwax poly and I did not see any interaction with the ink.

By the way, I cheated on the inlays - they're stickers!
Stickers, never would have guessed because in the photo they look fantastic, and with the attention to detail in the shapes of the headstock, the bottom of the fretboard and what is properly called "that string attachment thingy" I wasn't surprised to see inlays - it does look great.
Wes; do you coat the entire neck including frets?

Wes Yates said:
In that case Fitz, if you want a 'quick coat', I use Deft brand Clear Wood Finish in the aerosol can. I probably wouldn't use much tho. It does contain some really nasty solvents that might dissolve the ink on the paper. Test on the inside lid of the box first.

On that note, I use the same in the canned liquid form to do necks. Once I get the neck cut down and sanded, I will layer on with the liquid to about 6-10 thick coats (dry time of 4-6 hrs in between coats), sand down with 220 - 400 grit sandpaper until all the 'shine' is off and the surface is leveled down, then spray the sucker with 2-3 coats if the aerosol (drying in between). Makes a smooth as glass shine. I don't even need to buff it down.

-Wes
Oh no, not the fret/fingerboard. When I finish the neck, I will go in [roughly] this order

1. laminate the neck, make scarf, cut side profile, apply finger/fretboard, etc. Basic shape
2. Plane the sides and shape the neck down with a rounded back. Done with spokeshave. Apply any wings at this point. MUST be done after basic planing and shaping as the wings get in the way.
3. Tape off the top side of the finger/fretboard with painters tape. Do anything else I need to the neck before finishing.
4. Coat the neck with 6-10 thick coats of clear [liquid form] as mentioned above. Spray the last coats as mentioned.
5. Tape off, sand the finger/fretboard down to the flatness/radius I want. Apply tung or linseed oil to the surface.
6. Fret if desired.

The one area that doesn't get clear is the wood inside the box. I can hold the neck there when coating ;-).

-WY

Dave Onastik said:
Wes; do you coat the entire neck including frets?

Wes Yates said:
In that case Fitz, if you want a 'quick coat', I use Deft brand Clear Wood Finish in the aerosol can. I probably wouldn't use much tho. It does contain some really nasty solvents that might dissolve the ink on the paper. Test on the inside lid of the box first.

On that note, I use the same in the canned liquid form to do necks. Once I get the neck cut down and sanded, I will layer on with the liquid to about 6-10 thick coats (dry time of 4-6 hrs in between coats), sand down with 220 - 400 grit sandpaper until all the 'shine' is off and the surface is leveled down, then spray the sucker with 2-3 coats if the aerosol (drying in between). Makes a smooth as glass shine. I don't even need to buff it down.

-Wes

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