Hi there, folks!
I'm planning to build a Tin Can based Ukulele (or Ukelele, as you prefer), AKA TinKelele.
I already have most of the material and stuff involved on this project, including the most important: the Tin Can.
You can follow my project development through my Google Docs based tutorial:
https://docs1.google.com/document/edit?id=1jZfBiYaJp3-Ue5gWf9Zr7vyg...
This tutorial includes links for some tutorial and guides on which I based some of the ideas and concepts I'm employing, as well as some 2d views exported from Google SketchUp, software I'm using for 3d modeling.
I'm open to receive your suggestions and comments.
Daniel Castro
Tags:
A few things. How do you propose to cut the F holes? Do you have a jewelers saw? lazer? The metal may be quite thin so you will have to back it someway. The neck through is way over kill plus it should not touch the top. You need a relief area between the neck and top. Kills vibration if it touches. That's bad. Too much wood in the inside the box part of the neck. Drill a series of large holes or cut a long slot. Allow enough space between the neck relief and the top to be able to epoxy a light wood support under where the bridge will go so it won't cave in badly. If you extend the neck out the rear and attach the string ends there, you can use a floating banjo style bridge. Lots easier to set up for intonation and string height. I don't know your scale length you are using but the fingerboard seems to extend far onto the top. That's it for now.
Don
Hi there, Folks!
Good News!
F-Holes Cutting was successfull!
I bought a dremel alike tool for this task, and it ran pretty well.
Attached follows some images of this part of the process.
I decided to use three pieces of wood glued together to form the neck. Below are the pictures of these pieces to be glued.
Feel free to contribute with your suggestions.
DC
Hi there, folks!
It's finally done.
After a few weeks waiting for, my Tinkelele Project is finished.
You can see details and images clicking HERE.
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