Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on December 30, 2016 at 12:38pm

Usually Kenny, if the slots are cut with the right saw and hammered home they are difficult to remove, check that the kerf of your saw matches the fret wire, and the depth of cut is enough for them to seat properly, some soft woods also might allow the frets to release a bit easier too

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on December 30, 2016 at 2:27pm

Hi Kenny, yep as Darryl says, hard wood is a must for fingerboards for grip of frets and wear resistance, and better tone, if you wanna get fussy. You can run a bead of glue along the tang of the fret to fill the void in the fret slot, and tap it in. Wipe off any ooze out with a damp cloth. Frets that are glued in will come out if needed down the track. But as Darryl said the correct saw size is important. if the frets rattle now they will lift up later.

Cheers Taff 

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Permalink Reply by Robert Varcoe on December 30, 2016 at 2:54pm

I agree with both darryl and Taffy....... If your frets are loose.... make sure you saw blade to cut the frets is not cutting toooo wide.  Although no expert compared to the above.... my best investment was a fret saw blade (18 bucks) and although I bought a hammer for this purpose I prefer to add a small line of glue into my fret slots and use a irwin quick clamp (with the rubber removed on the fret side).  I also found if you have the correct fret saw and you cuts are not deep enough the fret will pop out (I found the clamp method showed this easily).... and if that happens I just remove the fret and give a couple of more light passes with my fret saw....reglue and clamp

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Permalink Reply by Kenny Robinson on December 30, 2016 at 3:25pm

I use poplar for my fret boards, i have a proper fret saw with a blade thickness of .020. and i make sure i have enough depth for the tang.  I had to glue the frets in and dress them with a small file.  This is the first fret board i used the bevel file on. Im not sure what is going on. 

Thanks Kenny

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Permalink Reply by Robert Varcoe on December 30, 2016 at 3:32pm

That is strange..... you blade is good... (same as mine)......and if your depth is ok.... did you get some frets that are maybe not good..... like too narrow?

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Permalink Reply by Kenny Robinson on December 30, 2016 at 3:34pm

I am using the same frets i have on my last 6 builds, the only new thing i am doing is using the end bevel file.

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on December 30, 2016 at 9:16pm

As Taffy says, poplar is very soft - too soft to rely on it for holding frets securely.

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on December 30, 2016 at 5:02pm

Hi Again, I would suggest that the use of poplar is way too soft for fingerboards that are fretted.

As mentioned it lacks gripping power to the tangs on the frets. I would imagine that the barbs on the fret [which help with grip] crush their way into the timbesr soft grain and leave an open groove to easily pull loose.

Coupled with this I'm thinking that prior to the use of the end bevel file you may have been filing in a downwards direction, forcing the fret into its groove. But filing sideways it is forcing the fret tang into the sidewall of the fret slots and as its softwood its widening the slot. I think hardwood fingerboards would solve the problem if your saw has the correct kerf.

Just a thought.

Taff

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Permalink Reply by Kenny Robinson on December 31, 2016 at 2:59am

Thanks Taff, ill have to source better wood for the finger board.

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Permalink Reply by Chuck Dubman on December 30, 2016 at 5:40pm

Clamp the loose frets down and drip thin superglue into the ends. It'll wick in and set them hard, plus it'll fill in the slots and make them look more finished.

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Permalink Reply by Kenny Robinson on December 31, 2016 at 3:01am

all ready done, super glue works great.

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